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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any help please with my 300. Overheating, no interior heat unless accelerating, radiator became busted, engine lagging, temps up and down intermittently and suddenly ..... Replaced thermostat and radiator to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here. Thanks so much
 

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Any help please with my 300. Overheating, no interior heat unless accelerating, radiator became busted, engine lagging, temps up and down intermittently and suddenly ..... Replaced thermostat and radiator to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here. Thanks so much
Do I have the sequence of events correct? The car began overheating, then you noticed there was no heat except when accelerating, then the radiator became physically broken, the engine started lagging, and temps became erratic?

If the order is right, I have some questions. First, what engine have you got? What kind of temperatures are you seeing, exactly? During the time there was no heat except under acceleration, was the cooling system checked to see if it was full? Why was the radiator replaced? Was it physically damaged or leaking, or was there a problem with coolant flow? Is the plastic reservoir tank clean, or does it look like someone threw up into it? What specifically is happening to the engine that you're describing as "lagging"? What kind of coolant is in the car, and do you know how long it has been there? If you can't tell us anything else about the coolant, what color is it? Have you or anyone else checked the car for diagnostic trouble codes?

If not, please try this and report back what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes the series is as close as possible to what has occurred. It's a 6 cylinder 2.7l and temps range from cold to in the red but dive down or up suddenly and when that happens we lose heat inside the cabin. Apparently the overheating problem caused a hole or 2 in the radiator at which time we replaced the radiator and the thermostat but the same problem continued. I had hoped the new thermostat would fix it but now I'm wondering about the heater core or the water pump ???? Overflow is relatively clean and pinkish in color. Lagging .... just isn't doing right, almost like misfiring. Today is just water in the radiator because the a antifreeze leaked out and I haven't replaced it yet. Trouble codes prior to radiator busting were p0171 and p0128 IF I REMEMBER THRM CORRECTLY:))

Thanks so so much
 

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Your cooling system needs to be pressure tested. You likely have have a coolant leak, which on the 2.7 is a very serious issue.
 

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Yes, really.

The 2.7 suffers from a number of design defects, one of which is a poorly-engineered water pump seal...or set of seals, actually...that are prone to develop leaks.

But it's just as probable that you've got a bad head gasket or gaskets. A mechanic can use a pressure tester to "pump up" your cooling system to make it easier to find the source of the leak.

Whatever the source, if it's leaking coolant into the crankcase, it will likely lead to catastrophic engine failure if not repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am a dumbass and I apologize for taking your time again but I told you the completely wrong codes.... shouldn't have tried to remember them. Anyway they were p0700 and p2181. Again I apologize and thank you
 

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P0700 is a transmission trouble code. It just tells you that there is a code stored in the transmission control module, which requires an advanced scanner to read.

P2181 is a cooling system performance code. It could be from a bad sensor or other cause, but from your description, it's likely from running low on coolant and/or introducing air into the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay so it's been going pretty good since I last spoke to you BUT ...... Please help!!!! At this point the car is not even operable ..... Towed to the house because it won't even turn over now after stopping at a store. NOT overheating but running very shaky and lagging, no smoking from engine or tailpipe, OIL is mixing with coolant somewhere and I need help diagnosing . .... Oil just changed and it is milky with whitish glue looking sludge in oil cap and appears over max fill on stick while coolant overflow/res is decreased and doesn't appear milky. There doesn't appear to be a coolant or oil leak under the car ?!?!?! This is my only vehicle so any help is much needed and appreciated.
 

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See post #6 above.

You likely have either a bad water pump seal or leaking head gasket(s). Either one has to be addressed right away to minimize any further damage from contaminated oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks so much.... Is there another way to diagnose which problem it is, aside from a pricey pressure test, that we can do here at home ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't think I told you that the oil level is high currently and the coolant reservoir low with no apparent leak from the system out...... If that's any help.
 

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Thanks so much.... Is there another way to diagnose which problem it is, aside from a pricey pressure test, that we can do here at home ???
If you think a pressure test is "pricey", you may have a stroke when you get an estimate for fixing the problem. Most often, performing this repair properly winds up including the timing chains and guides as well, and you'll need to find a shop that will work on the Chrysler 2.7 and has the necessary experience to do so.

There's no reason you can't do a pressure test at home, but I don't think you'll be able to perform that test as effectively as an experienced mechanic. The kits start around $25. Or you can use a chemical leak test kit that you can buy at most auto part stores.

Whatever you are planning to do, you need to do it fast. If there is a significant amount of coolant in your oil...and it certainly sounds like there is...you are likely to see catastrophic engine damage in very short order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well right now the car hasn't moved from the driveway and I am not intending on letting it until it's fixed. As for the repair, whatever it is, will be done here at home as well. May take quite a bit longer but it'll get done right and without the labor bill that tends to be the bulk of the bill at any given garage. I am leaning toward a leaking head gasket and we already have the replacement seal which cost less than 100$ so I'll be thrilled with the extra time spent fixing it if it's $100 and not $2500!!
 

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I don't think I'm explaining this very well.

If your oil is contaminated with a mixture of water and coolant, your engine likely has corrosion forming on its mating surfaces, whether you are driving it or not.
 
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