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Hey All,

I have an 06' 300 with a 3.5L engine. I'm the original owner and up until last week, zero issues. It has about 60k miles. I've noticed a very faint white smoke due to exhaust and condensation for years which eventually fades away when the car is brought up to idle temp. Over the last week, that faint smoke does not seem to disappear and the fans kick on and spin very fast. The other night I drove around and when I arrived to my destination, I noticed that most of the coolant spilled all over the place from the OverFlow Cap. There's no leaks at all, no lights or codes when hooked up to my computer, the car does not show that it overheats but the fans kick on when idle. There's no oil mixed with the coolant and no bubbles. I did a block tester and there's no exhaust getting in the cooling system, so I'm ruling out head gasket and block. I just replaced the coolant, and I'm noticing that when idle and when driving, it seems as if the coolant will over flow. I did not over fill it. Additionally A TON of condensation is built up in the muffler, I have a solid puddle now even at idle. Zero leaks from the engine, or hoses. The front cabin is bone dry. Any ideas? Has anyone ran into this before? Any troubleshooting steps, help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
 

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A couple of things to look at:

Exactly what coolant have you been using?

You can't rule out a bad head gasket based on a lack of bubbles or visible oil in your coolant. I'd try a compression test next. That'll give you a chance to check your plugs for deposits as well.

There are also chemical tests for small amounts of oil in your coolant.
 

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A couple of things to look at:

Exactly what coolant have you been using?

You can't rule out a bad head gasket based on a lack of bubbles or visible oil in your coolant. I'd try a compression test next. That'll give you a chance to check your plugs for deposits as well.

There are also chemical tests for small amounts of oil in your coolant.
Thanks for the response, The coolant I’ve been using is from the dealer. I just flushed it yesterday and added Zerex 50/50. It hasn’t been done in a few years, however the car doesn’t see too much action. Can bad fluid be a culprit? I used the combustion leak detector test. Is that what you mean? No results. I can try a compression test, although it is going to the dealer next week for diagnosis. I’m trying to beat them to the issue :)
 

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Thanks for the response, The coolant I’ve been using is from the dealer. I just flushed it yesterday and added Zerex 50/50.
Not enough information to compute.

You can check your owner's manual to confirm, but your car should have come from the factory with Mopar Pink HOAT. The only HOAT-compatible Zerex that I know of is G-05. If you used a different Zerex product, or any other non-HOAT coolant (including Mopar Purple OAT, which is intended for 2013-up cars) you may have mixed incompatible coolants, which can result in sludging that can clog cooling passages.

I also don't understand how you can refill with 50/50 premix coolant after a flush. Once you flush with clear (or preferably, distilled) water, roughly 50% of your cooling system would still be full of water. Refilling your radiator and reservoir with premix at this point will leave you with roughly 25% coolant and 75% water, nowhere near the minimum 50/50 mixture recommended by Chrysler.

I used the combustion leak detector test. Is that what you mean? No results.
Sure, that's one way to go.

I can try a compression test, although it is going to the dealer next week for diagnosis. I’m trying to beat them to the issue :)
Up to you. At this point I suspect the head gaskets, so the compression test seems to me like the logical next diagnostic step.
 

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Not enough information to compute.

You can check your owner's manual to confirm, but your car should have come from the factory with Mopar Pink HOAT. The only HOAT-compatible Zerex that I know of is G-05. If you used a different Zerex product, or any other non-HOAT coolant (including Mopar Purple OAT, which is intended for 2013-up cars) you may have mixed incompatible coolants, which can result in sludging that can clog cooling passages.

I also don't understand how you can refill with 50/50 premix coolant after a flush. Once you flush with clear (or preferably, distilled) water, roughly 50% of your cooling system would still be full of water. Refilling your radiator and reservoir with premix at this point will leave you with roughly 25% coolant and 75% water, nowhere near the minimum 50/50 mixture recommended by Chrysler.



Sure, that's one way to go.



Up to you. At this point I suspect the head gaskets, so the compression test seems to me like the logical next diagnostic step.
@CtCarl - Thank you for your responses and apologies on the lack of detail. Please see below :

- Previously was Mopar pink HOAT. I've added Zerex G-05 because that was the only compatible coolant in the nearest auto store. I drained the pink HOAT, added water and a compatible coolant system flush mix. Drove around for about a half hour. Drained the vehicle and added the Zerex G-05.

I'm unfortunately leaning towards the head gaskets as well. Anticipating being banged over the head hard for this repair. It would have been great if it was just the coolant overflow cap :(
 

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@CtCarl - Thank you for your responses and apologies on the lack of detail. Please see below :

- Previously was Mopar pink HOAT. I've added Zerex G-05 because that was the only compatible coolant in the nearest auto store. I drained the pink HOAT, added water and a compatible coolant system flush mix. Drove around for about a half hour. Drained the vehicle and added the Zerex G-05.

I'm unfortunately leaning towards the head gaskets as well. Anticipating being banged over the head hard for this repair. It would have been great if it was just the coolant overflow cap :(
Don't suggest a stealership for this kind of work. My '07 Daytona needed head gaskets. The original owner had the Lifetime Chrysler Care warranty, so he took it to the dealer, and they totalled it. That's how I got it.

Since a few of the valves were pretty burned, I ended up swapping in a set of rebuilt heads, and of course, all the may-as-wells. Runs like brand new now.

I'd suggest taking the car around to a few independent shops for estimates. If your compression is good, you can skip heads/valve work and just get the gaskets (and maybe seals) done. Shouldn't be too bad. But a dealership will be all like, "Oh, you got here just in time!", and their eyes will spin and come up on "JACKPOT".
 

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Don't suggest a stealership for this kind of work. My '07 Daytona needed head gaskets. The original owner had the Lifetime Chrysler Care warranty, so he took it to the dealer, and they totalled it. That's how I got it.

Since a few of the valves were pretty burned, I ended up swapping in a set of rebuilt heads, and of course, all the may-as-wells. Runs like brand new now.

I'd suggest taking the car around to a few independent shops for estimates. If your compression is good, you can skip heads/valve work and just get the gaskets (and maybe seals) done. Shouldn't be too bad. But a dealership will be all like, "Oh, you got here just in time!", and their eyes will spin and come up on "JACKPOT".
@CtCarl - Fair Point!! I have a couple shops I'm going to run it by. Thanks for all your advice. I'll let you know how it turns out!
 

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Good luck! What's in your favor is that it's running, not coming in on a wrecker, which sounds like a ringing cash register to most shops.
 
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