do you still have the U110B code?

Is this when you are shifting in auto-stick, Drive mode, or both?

And what exactly do you mean by << seems to be pulling me hard down into 1st >>?

 

The dealer might of been right. Read this TSB... Bullet 5 under symptoms. Also it talks about reprogramming the PCM. When it comes to this stuff it's actually better to let the dealer upgrade the software IMO...

http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB/TSB_1803104a.pdf

They should not have to replace anything... Just reprogram. Copy the TSB and bring it in and ask them why they said they needed to replace parts?

 

do you still have the U110B code?

Is this when you are shifting in auto-stick, Drive mode, or both?

And what exactly do you mean by << seems to be pulling me hard down into 1st >>?

I'm not sure if I have the U110B code. The CEL came on again after I resolved all the codes.

It does it in Auto-Stick and Drive.

Usually, when in auto-stick, if you downshift at an improper time, you will feel it slowing you down rather harshly. If you downshift at the proper time, you should feel nothing. It slows you down harder and faster than it should then releases the gear and smooths out. It's sort of like slamming on your brakes and then letting go, but without even touching the brake.

Thanks for the info (ammo) guys!

 

I doubt the trans is bad. Sounds like it's just being controlled poorly. The forst TSP talks about resetting the adaptive learning also. You can do that by pulling fuse 11 for a few minutes or just be sure they do this TSB at the same time...

http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB/TSB_2100904.pdf

 

Usually, when in auto-stick, if you downshift at an improper time, you will feel it slowing you down rather harshly. If you downshift at the proper time, you should feel nothing. It slows you down harder and faster than it should then releases the gear and smooths out. It's sort of like slamming on your brakes and then letting go, but without even touching the brake.

Thanks for the info (ammo) guys!

It could be the converter clutch is not dis-engaging when it should (which could be software) or you have a problem with one of your trans selonid shift valves. Hopefully software updates will fix the issue.

When going to the dealer for service I have learned a few valuable lessions... Be nice, stay calm, be sure to make them feel like you appreciate their help, and KNOW what you are talking about and challange anything that seems off... They will be more straight dealing with you if you come with info in hand and a good attitude.


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Thanks for that info 'trs300'. I was totally nice the first time I went in...and nice the second time. It seemed like nothing got done until I got mad. Then they told me they'd "look into the transmission oil level free of charge" The quote of the day by the customer service rep was "Usually people trade these cars in once they have 100k on them" -Which, sorry, I neglected to mention, the car has 108K on it.

 

LOL... Like I said, try and stay calm. I did not say people wouldn't say stupid ass things to you. If I had a dealer say "Usually people trade these cars in once they have 100k on them" My first reaction would be to say "Then maybe you should make a better car! 100K is nothing for todays cars unless they are complete S#!T..." Needless to say I would be off to a bad start. LOL. Good luck and let us know if you get it figured out.

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do you still have the U110B code?

Is this when you are shifting in auto-stick, Drive mode, or both?

And what exactly do you mean by << seems to be pulling me hard down into 1st >>?

Sorry to hijack this thread butmI wanted to talk to you about your 300 shift kit, price and what not.