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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I have some questions about air intakes.

1) what's the diff between an ebay $50 air intake vs an intake that coast $300?
2) Is it better to have the filter inside the fender or is it ok on top?
3) Is aluminium better then the plastic?
4) Whats the best intake for $200
5) anyone seen the air intake that auto zone sells for $180? is that a good one? I forgot the name, its not a name brand but it looks very nice.

Sorry about all these questions but there are so many intakes on the market Im lost. Thanks for taking the time to answer.

I drive an 06 300C 5.7
:wavey:
Thank you!
 

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1) here is the difference between an ebay intake and a $275 AFE intake..picture says it all. plus the ebay one uses a garbage filter...u dont want chunk of filter getting sucked back into the engine do ya?


2) well with alot of the intakes for the these cars is that it comes with a box so when u close ur hood it seals it to the hood so a majority of the air gettting sucked in is from the inner fender anyway. i know k&n, mopar, afe all use this design as u can see in this pic...



3) id prefer the plastic..i wouldnt think it transfer as much heat and its very easy to paint and make it look better. but performance wise i am not sure

4) well im pretty sure most of the better intakes are at least $250
Mopar
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Magnum-Charger-300C-SRT8-Mopar-Cold-Air-Intake-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf34dc575QQitemZ330499474805QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
AFE Stage 2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFE-STAGE-2-INTAKE-P5R-MAGNUM-CHRYSLER-300C-05-08-5-7L-/160409525342?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2559271c5e
K&N
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23108ca5b7
Aria
http://airflowinnovationscorp.com/intakes/aria-composite.html
Legmaker
http://www.213autoparts.com/LMI-Leg-Maker-Intake-True-CAI-Carbon-Fiber-57-61-10022.htm

5) And no i dont know anything about that intake
 

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Hi everyone,
I have some questions about air intakes.

1) what's the diff between an ebay $50 air intake vs an intake that coast $300?
2) Is it better to have the filter inside the fender or is it ok on top?
3) Is aluminium better then the plastic?
4) Whats the best intake for $200
5) anyone seen the air intake that auto zone sells for $180? is that a good one? I forgot the name, its not a name brand but it looks very nice.

Sorry about all these questions but there are so many intakes on the market Im lost. Thanks for taking the time to answer.

I drive an 06 300C 5.7
:wavey:
Thank you!
1) Flebay or Valued Vendor
2) True Cold Air vs Short Ram
3) 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other
4) ha a used one
5) tell you what, you mine as well buy the filter from autozone and clamp it on to the stock tube, then save money and buy the proper CAI
 

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ill bite...

the material is important. That ebay CAI will work. the material and size are important to flow and "cooling" air.

the ebay will be a bit more restrictive. Get that Big Bully its a great value
 

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I agree with all this big bully talk. I'm a huge fan of mine. You won't be disappointed.
 

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Yep I love my big bully.

Keep in mind that the more expensive ones are designed and tested to reduce turbulent airflow therefore increasing atomization. So basically they're better :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I picked K&N

Thanks everyone for all the feed back. I choose the K&N filter mostly because I got it from ebay for $217. So far I think it's really cool and I like the sound that comes out of it. Im really happy I spent the cash and didnt get one of thoes $50 jobs out there. Thanks for the pics that really helped! My next mod will be an exhaust.

Thank you!:smiley_thumbs_up:
 

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i know this is a dead thread but you can build your own frankintake for $100 in parts... and supossedly it beats all the gains from the higher priced intakes. you use quality pieces also.

just my $0.02

its my next project for my car
 

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The truth about cold air intakes according to one auto manufacturer.
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:

Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air
filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular
among the import tuner crowd, these items may
improve engine performance by letting the
engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake
air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And
for that all-important sound when you wind up
the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a
deep, throaty tone.

Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the
intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water
from getting into the intake tract, all the while
putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and lowrestriction
air filters kick up engine performance a
notch, they also have their dark side. They can
really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered
by warranty!

With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of
engine damage from hydrolocking if you drive in
wet weather or plow through standing water.
These systems are usually designed to draw air
from the bottom of the engine compartment or
from the front of the radiator where the air is cold
and dense. The air filter used in these systems
doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked
into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the
piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture
(water doesn’t compress) so it stops before
reaching top dead center (TDC). Even though the
piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning
from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends
and gets shorter. With each compression and
power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it
eventually fails from metal fatigue.

With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of
premature engine wear and contamination. Some
of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air
filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the
filter, causing premature wear of the pistons,
piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul
up the throttle body and the components of the
intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake
manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC)
systems.

So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your
customers they’re taking a really big risk if they
run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a
low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by
these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that
could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
 

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I have a fender mount and use a pre-filter to keep the filter dry/clean, and nothing is getting through that but air.
 

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The truth about cold air intakes according to one auto manufacturer.
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:

Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air
filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular
among the import tuner crowd, these items may
improve engine performance by letting the
engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake
air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And
for that all-important sound when you wind up
the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a
deep, throaty tone.

Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the
intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water
from getting into the intake tract, all the while
putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and lowrestriction
air filters kick up engine performance a
notch, they also have their dark side. They can
really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered
by warranty!

With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of
engine damage from hydrolocking if you drive in
wet weather or plow through standing water.
These systems are usually designed to draw air
from the bottom of the engine compartment or
from the front of the radiator where the air is cold
and dense. The air filter used in these systems
doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked
into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the
piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture
(water doesn’t compress) so it stops before
reaching top dead center (TDC). Even though the
piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning
from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends
and gets shorter. With each compression and
power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it
eventually fails from metal fatigue.

With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of
premature engine wear and contamination. Some
of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air
filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the
filter, causing premature wear of the pistons,
piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul
up the throttle body and the components of the
intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake
manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC)
systems.

So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your
customers they’re taking a really big risk if they
run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a
low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by
these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that
could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
although i cant argue facts as i believe these are true. however i think some of this is kinda rare. if you have a CAI that draws directly from the belly pan area, if you have a run with 1-2 feet of water you will prob not only hydrolock your engine your car will probably become totalled as a flood car. I can only imagine the corrossion and wiring problems do to flooding. some people get them as good buys but i think a flood like this makes them a future money pit.

as for filters i agree they are less restrictive than probably a oem. I know our bigbully intakes use a s&b filter which is one of the more restrictive on the aftermarket filters but still produce positive results. K&N is one of the least restrictive filters out there from my research and allow more particulates than a lot of aftermarket filters out there. I would argue though that someone that runs into engine problems will have a hard time pinpointing it to the quality of air the CAI provided and the culprit will 9/10 come from somewhere else.


i could probably argue for 100's of pages about air intakes though which ones work, which ones don't and quality.

But when its all said and done, 50% of a CAI intake purchase i would say is based off of looks and 25% functionality and the other 25% price. Is this a bad thing? No, I would argue each intake will vary performance wise from one vehicle being tested to what might think and equal vehicle being tested. More importantly your talking in REAL world numbers something that can add approximately 5-13 HP which probably isnt noticeable to the butt dyno with a slight advantage at the track if your a professional racer and you can consistently get the same time everytime or very close to it, to decipher one CAI performance from another.

So i will say when searching for a quality AIR intake look at the quality of the intake the big bully is a mandrel bent powder coated intake utilizing very nice hardware and a reputable filter. Our pricing is around $200 which beats out the majority of the big box intakes (made big by advertising) and looks better and more finished. the low end well its low end filter quality is questionable, and most of them look like a drunk plumbers nightmare and to me is nothing more than an eye sore.
 

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oh got remember some of the air filter covers and someone i recall had this stuff called frogskin that covered the whole in the fender
 
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