[rachelle]

Hi I'm new to the forum. :wavey:Just bought a srt8 last Friday :smileup:
Went to the city to pick it up and bought a nice alpine amp and 12" subs, got all the wiring harness etc.. but don't have access to a professional installation service (I live in a small town in northern canada) I may be successful at getting a local guy who is knowledgable, but would like to try to understand the difficulty of doing the job and if he needs wiring schematics, needs to remove the console etc.. I can provide technical details of the equipment, pictures etc.. Hoping someone with specific knowledge of the srt8 would be so kind as to spend some time to help me out. Thanks, Rachelle

 

[aherzing]

So in order to install an amp and subs, you are going to need some sort of output from your headunit/radio... the easiest way to do this and retain your factory radio is to purchase a LOC (Line Output Converter) the device is used to tap the signal from your rear speakers and convert it to an RCA output for your amplifier. Once you have the signal, everything else is easy, with LX cars the battery is in the trunk so there is no need to run wires the length of the car.

So in summary after you purchase the LOC the wiring that needs to be handled:
RCAs from LOC to amp
Power from Amp to Battery
Ground from Amp to a clean Chasis Ground
Remote wire from amp to a remote source to trigger turn on (see link below)
Speaker wire from amp to subs

All of this can be done in the trunk with minimal destruction (lol)

http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=60432 This explains it all

 

[rachelle]

Hey Thx so much for that explanation. I think I get it now.. line converter (which I had purchased with the rest of the equipment) hooks into wires going to the existing rear speakers n to the amp, mount the amp on the kicker box, connect it and then the amp to battery (conveniently located in the trunk) and to the batt ground.
Wow, u saved me big time. This other guy was telling me he's gotta remove the deck n the panels...he wanted to charge me $400. $100 for installing each piece (counting LOC and wire pk each as one) I knew something was up. Guess he took me for a dumb blonde A different guy is coming over tonight to do it, n I feel like I have a better understanding of what he's got to do (thanks to you aherzing). I'm so happy:smileup: Thank-you

 

[aherzing]

Not every installer is aware that the battery is in the trunk right off the bat, but either way that sounds a little steep, i think in my old benz i only paid 100$ to have my whole sub/amp installed... hope it goes well, let me know if anything comes up or u have questions...

 

[todd]

well he probably doesnt realize you can access the rear 6x9's from in the trunk that panel under the deck lid is only held on by push pins

 

[HNDAKLR]

In my SRT8 I had the factory upgraded 10" kicker woofer. When I hooked my line converter the rear 6x9s I was not getting my low end bass. So I hooked the line converter to the subwoofer wire and it sounds great now. My 6x9s must have been crossed over. I figured the single subwoofer wire might not give me enough signal for the line converter since it has left and right inputs, but it worked great.

 

[todd]

In my SRT8 I had the factory upgraded 10" kicker woofer. When I hooked my line converter the rear 6x9s I was not getting my low end bass. So I hooked the line converter to the subwoofer wire and it sounds great now. My 6x9s must have been crossed over. I figured the single subwoofer wire might not give me enough signal for the line converter since it has left and right inputs, but it worked great.

yeah you're right i noticed the same thing. the rear 6x9s are the closest to full range but are def not received the lows ideal for a sub. i have since switched over to the pac audio harness that goes behind my radio. my freq range improved dramatically.

 

[rachelle]

Hi aherzing
So I got the audio equipment installed, was as easy as you said, thx so much for taking a min to reply. So the result is nice n bass-y INside the car, but outside the trunk is rattling, I didn;t expect that at all. Its embarrassing. Got any more advice for me n others like me with that same problem? :4-dontknow:
I applied some foam insulation tape (for windows) between the licence plate bolts and plate cover, n that seemed to work alright, but the spoiler lip and the whole trunk lid still rattles. Everything is tight. Thx, Rachelle

So in order to install an amp and subs, you are going to need some sort of output from your headunit/radio... the easiest way to do this and retain your factory radio is to purchase a LOC (Line Output Converter) the device is used to tap the signal from your rear speakers and convert it to an RCA output for your amplifier. Once you have the signal, everything else is easy, with LX cars the battery is in the trunk so there is no need to run wires the length of the car.

So in summary after you purchase the LOC the wiring that needs to be handled:
RCAs from LOC to amp
Power from Amp to Battery
Ground from Amp to a clean Chasis Ground
Remote wire from amp to a remote source to trigger turn on (see link below)
Speaker wire from amp to subs

All of this can be done in the trunk with minimal destruction (lol)

http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=60432 This explains it all

 

[kecksrt8]

yeah you're right i noticed the same thing. the rear 6x9s are the closest to full range but are def not received the lows ideal for a sub. i have since switched over to the pac audio harness that goes behind my radio. my freq range improved dramatically.

did this harness allow all speakers to receive full range or just a hook up for a sub?

 

[guntek18]

HEY GUYS'

I found a page here that showed how to replace the factory KICKER amp in the trunk for an aftermarket one. I did it because my trunk speaker didnt work when i got the car and thought the factory amp was bad . Well i put in a "known working" amp and still got nothing. Come to find out that a few wires in the factory amp harness are "dead".

* The amp audio signal "in" wires
* The amp "on" signal wire.

My question is :
Is this harness coming "straight" from the receiver/head-unit or is it coming from the amp, up front
(under the driver's side dash) ???

I need to find out where the signals drop.

 

[guntek18]

:shakehead:

 

[steven561.sv]

So in order to install an amp and subs, you are going to need some sort of output from your headunit/radio... the easiest way to do this and retain your factory radio is to purchase a LOC (Line Output Converter) the device is used to tap the signal from your rear speakers and convert it to an RCA output for your amplifier. Once you have the signal, everything else is easy, with LX cars the battery is in the trunk so there is no need to run wires the length of the car.

So in summary after you purchase the LOC the wiring that needs to be handled:
RCAs from LOC to amp
Power from Amp to Battery
Ground from Amp to a clean Chasis Ground
Remote wire from amp to a remote source to trigger turn on (see link below)
Speaker wire from amp to subs

All of this can be done in the trunk with minimal destruction (lol)

http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=60432 This explains it all

Link is broken now 😓

 

[jkelly16]

Link is broken now 😓

This thread is 12 years old so it's no surprise. Probably got removed for some reason.

 

[Mike W]

Hi aherzing So I got the audio equipment installed, was as easy as you said, thx so much for taking a min to reply. So the result is nice n bass-y INside the car, but outside the trunk is rattling, I didn;t expect that at all. Its embarrassing. Got any more advice for me n others like me with that same problem? :4-dontknow: I applied some foam insulation tape (for windows) between the licence plate bolts and plate cover, n that seemed to work alright, but the spoiler lip and the whole trunk lid still rattles. Everything is tight. Thx, Rachelle

Glad you got it working. Just a word to the wise, if you let the sub pound, you may run into your back-up camera acting up as the vibration will give you a blue/black screen in reverse after awhile.