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I know, I know. I screwed up. Hooked batt. Up backward for about 2 sec. Fixed and now wipers, horn, cruise, blinkers and power door locks won't work. I have a 2007 chrystler 300. I checked all fuses that I could find in trunk and engine compartment and found blow fuse for radio and blown 30amp fuse for anti lock brakes and replaced both they work fine now. Took to dealer & they checked it and think it is the steering wheel control module but aren't sure. Can't figure out what's wrong with the power locks either. Car cranks idles and runs just fine. Any help or advice would greatly be appreciated.
 

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I know, I know. I screwed up. Hooked batt. Up backward for about 2 sec. Fixed and now wipers, horn, cruise, blinkers and power door locks won't work. I have a 2007 chrystler 300. I checked all fuses that I could find in trunk and engine compartment and found blow fuse for radio and blown 30amp fuse for anti lock brakes and replaced both they work fine now. Took to dealer & they checked it and think it is the steering wheel control module but aren't sure. Can't figure out what's wrong with the power locks either. Car cranks idles and runs just fine. Any help or advice would greatly be appreciated.
Ok, I hate to admit this, but I did the EXACT same thing. I was reading a DIY article on the Internet about replacing the battery and it said to remove the wheel well door panel, disconnect the negative terminal, then proceed to remove the battery. Well, I assumed that the lead closest to the access panel was the negative and that's where things got bad. Bad battery placement. Poorly marked battery terminals (no color-coding), just terrible in my opinion. But, there's no one to blame but myself... I should have paid better attention to what I was doing.

So, long story short, got the negative battery cable attached to the positive battery post (again, none of the cables was color coded), touched the positive cable to the negative battery post and the fusible link fried instantly (we're talking about a 6-gauge wire burning in half!) Holy crap!

After that very humbling experience (I've been working on cars my entire life, this was a major FUBAR on my part and *very* humiliating), I repaired the fusible link and got the battery installed correctly.

Car starts and runs fine. All dashboard gauges work fine. But the power door locks, interior lights, etc., no longer work. I haven't checked fuses yet but I suspect that the same fuses will be blown as to what you reported.

What did you have to replace to get your door locks to work again?

Thanks.
 

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I don't think your going to get any answer from the OP since this was their only post and that was back on 9/17/2010. Maybe someone else will be of help..
 

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Thanks. So far my research tells me that it could be a blown IOD fuse, a blown Front Control Module (FCM), or a blown Body Control Module (BCM). Fortunately all those items are relatively inexpensive from eBay. I guess I'll do some troubleshooting tonight when I get home from work to see what fuses might be blown and go from there.
 

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My guess is it'll be a fuse. BUT, the FCM is very touchy so that's possible too. Your wires aren't black and red with big + and - on them? mine are!
 

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My guess is it'll be a fuse. BUT, the FCM is very touchy so that's possible too. Your wires aren't black and red with big + and - on them? mine are!
No, both wires are black on mine. :mad:

The more research that I do, the more that I'm convinced that it's the IOD fuse. I certainly hope that's the case. I'll report back tomorrow after I check all the fuses.
 

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Ok, here's the final outcome:

Went to Advanced Auto and bought a new positive battery cable (splice type) which allowed me to reconnect the burned-up fusible link to the alternator. Battery is now properly reconnected.

Checked all fuses under the hood, all were OK.

Checked all fuses inside cabin (driver's side dashboard). Found three blown fuses. One was to the horn, one was the infamous IOD (fuse 19), can't remember what the last one went to. Anyway, replaced all three fuses and everything seems to work now! Interior lights work again, power doors locks work again, horn, etc., so all is well. :smileup:

And, regarding my previous comment about the lack of color coding, it turns out that the positive battery cable WAS indeed red... but Chrysler put a black plastic sleeve over it which made it indistinguishable from the negative cable. Lesson learned. Never assume. Take your time, take careful notes, and do the job right. How humiliating.

Anyway, hope this helps someone else who might get into a similar situation. I'm just glad nothing major was damaged.
 

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Glad you got it fixed!
 

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Good to hear you got it fixed! No worries everyone has done something dumb before, admitting it is big! Welcome to the Z, a lot of great information here and great people too! :D
 
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