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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone, I'm not trying to make a how-to but I'll throw some pictures and what I did up here. If anyone has any questions I'll be more than happy to clarify something.
I know several people have already done this and I think Extreme did this and used a reed switch as well.
I was going to use a mercury switch in the lid, but I couldn't find an elegant way to get the wires down into the console from the lid, so I scrapped that idea.

So to start remove the console from the car. Open the trunk and pull fuse #9. It is a 20amp yellow fuse. You need to do this because you will be tying into this circuit and it has power even without the keys in the ignition.
I bought the LED Flexible lights. You can cut these to the length you need. I placed mine up under the lip on the edge of the console on each side. Then I secured them with a little double sided foam tape and a dab of 5 Minute Plastic Epoxy. I just used a dab on each piece of foam tape so if I ever needed to replace them or remove them I could. I hooked the lights up to my test bench to find the best place to mount them. In the picture it looks like they are hanging down a bit, they are, I was trying to get good position for them before I secured them.







On the forward underside of the lips I drilled two holes to pass the LED wiring through. (Green circles on the left and right side of the picture.)
I then mounted the relay socket and started running my wires to it. (Circled in green bottom left.)





Relay and relay socket.





I did not take pictures of where I mounted the reed switch under the back right of the console. (Lower circle) On the back of the console there are four screws to remove and you can remove the vent and metal bracket on the back. You can also pop off the rear cover with the vents in it to give you more room to work. You will need to clean this area up a bit before you can mount the switch. It has plastic webbing that you need to file down or cut out. I used a pair of ***** and an razor knife.
[FONT=&quot]Mount the switch and run the wires forward toward the relay wiring and wire it up. I then mounted the other half of the reed switch, the magnet, on the lid. (Top Circle) I just tacked it in place with the 5 minute Plastic[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Epoxy as I didn't have two small screws to mount it with. I'll get those at work on Monday :)[/FONT]


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I used a Weather-Pak connector to connect to the cars power. It was over kill for using it under the console. (Weather-Pak connectors are made for engine bays etc) but I had it laying around. I pulled the power off the console power outlet as it has power 24/7. I just spliced into the wiring. I didn't want to have to put the key in the ignition to use the lights.

I drew up a simplified schematic in PowerPoint:







Here's a couple of pictures of the console with the door open.
The relay I used is loud when it cycles. I didn't think I would like that when I had it hooked up on the bench. But when I got the console back in the car it isn't that bad. Plus I don't have to sit there and keep opening it to see if the light is off, much like that blasted light in the fridge.
[FONT=&quot]With the setup I used, the light actually goes off with the lid about 1 inch from close, and turns on the same upon opening it.[/FONT]


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[FONT=&quot]I'm going to take a couple more pics when the sun goes down. It makes a world of difference, especially when you have very dark tint on your ride!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Damage!

Hey TK,

It took me about 4 months, lol. Yeah total time anyway. I started it then had to put it back together and it took me a while to get going again!

Anyway,

It took about 5 hours total time.
The cost, about 35 bucks, including the LEDs.
I ordered most of the items from Digi-Key and had some other parts laying around.
At least when I go out to my car now I can see what the hell is in there! The overhead console lights do no good at the angle they are at. Of course you know this. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just curious, what the heck is an RJ11 jack doing in there?
That's my sub level adjustment. I took the board out of the case it came in and mounted it and that's what the connection was on the back of it, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice job, Is the fuse 9 in the trunk for the 12v cigarette plug wires in the console or something else?
Yep it is for the cig lighter/power outlet inside the console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
NP Nemo, lol

Some of the night shots I said I'd post:





You can really tell the nice white light from the LEDs and my still stock interior lights. BAHHHHH

Guess I know what's after the stereo stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
looks good Alex. might have to get you to do this for me. I'll trade you work on your grill
Deal :)


Thanks for the responses all! I'm with you TK on the functional over the bling. I tend to do more work on the inside of my cars than the outside. The inside is for me to enjoy. The outside is for everyone else to enjoy, lol.
 

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Deal :)


Thanks for the responses all! I'm with you TK on the functional over the bling. I tend to do more work on the inside of my cars than the outside. The inside is for me to enjoy. The outside is for everyone else to enjoy, lol.
In that case I'd enjoy the car more if you took that molding off. :D

Let me know if you need help with that grill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
In that case I'd enjoy the car more if you took that molding off. :D

Let me know if you need help with that grill.

Will do Daniel, on both counts. Just waiting for a 100 degree day on the weekend to get the molding started :)

The grill is just a little bit down the road. I have my audio stuff I'm working on getting then the grill, then the interior LEDs. At least that's the plan as of August 3rd 11:45am. :)
 
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