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Discussion Starter #1
specifically I'm wondering about 3.50 to 60 times if you swap the differential? but even if it is the numbers from a different car at least give a vague idea


looking at a different brand of car (crown vic) it looks like it was able to drop almost an entire second going from 2.73 to 3.27..

I'm wondering what the numbers would be for a 3.5 l v6
 

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Again with the Crown Vic?

Nobody can answer this question without knowing what you have now, and what you're anticipating changing to.

You need to get your build sheet, or climb under the car, get the tag numbers off the diff, and ask a dealership to look it up for you.
 

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Again with the Crown Vic?

Nobody can answer this question without knowing what you have now, and what you're anticipating changing to.

You need to get your build sheet, or climb under the car, get the tag numbers off the diff, and ask a dealership to look it up for you.
im only asking the differences

2.83 vs 3.08 vs 3.27 vs. 3.55


im looking for anyone with experience swapping one to another. just to get an ideaa
 

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Those are Ford gears. You don't have, nor can you install, any of those.

The options are: 3.07, 3.64, and 3.90.

The only change that makes even the slightest sense, would be from 3.07 to 3.90.

It you already have 3.64, you're talking about a very expensive swap...including a tuner, which has been recommended to you previously, and which you've dismissed as too expensive...for very little benefit.

If you already have 3.90, you have no options.

So there's no point pursuing this any further without knowing what you have now.
 

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Those are Ford gears. You don't have, nor can you install, any of those.

The options are: 3.07, 3.64, and 3.90.

The only change that makes even the slightest sense, would be from 3.07 to 3.90.

It you already have 3.64, you're talking about a very expensive swap...including a tuner, which has been recommended to you previously, and which you've dismissed as too expensive...for very little benefit.

If you already have 3.90, you have no options.

So there's no point pursuing this any further without knowing what you have now.
I'm trying to figure out what I have now but it's difficult because there's no numbers or stickers on the differential..

why would upgrading from a 3.64 be more expensive? I'm trying to get a general idea of each upgrade and how much it affect fuel economy and 0 to 60 times. And I already have the tunerr. outside of tuning in to accept the much more expensive 93 octane it doesn't really seem to have much thatt I can do

its an 06 Chrysler 300 touring 3.5

but I bought it from someone else and I don't know if they might have already changed anyting..
 

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Hate to tell you but with the 3.5 you're not going to gain much. If you don't want the expense of a tuner when you figure what it's going to cost to swap the differential you're going to go into sticker shock. Plus you'll need to change the gear ratio in the PCM or you'll be in limp mode so you'll most likely need the tuner to change that. Hate to tell you adding horse power is not cheap, especially for Mopars. I'm also wondering why you are posting similar questions over on the Charger site.
 

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I'm trying to figure out what I have now but it's difficult because there's no numbers or stickers on the differential..

why would upgrading from a 3.64 be more expensive? I'm trying to get a general idea of each upgrade and how much it affect fuel economy and 0 to 60 times. And I already have the tunerr. outside of tuning in to accept the much more expensive 93 octane it doesn't really seem to have much thatt I can do

its an 06 Chrysler 300 touring 3.5

but I bought it from someone else and I don't know if they might have already changed anyting..
Go here and get your build sheet. That will tell you what rear end was in it when it left the factory. If a previous owner changed it and didn't document it in some helpful way, there's no way to know. You could try this method to calculate the gear ratio yourself.

Whatever ratio you have, changing it is a big job. If you want to know what that's like, Google "Programming for new gears and possible abs work around" with the quotes. If you pay someone to do it, it's going to be very expensive. If you do it yourself, you may be able to keep a lid on the costs, but it still won't be cheap or easy.

The point of my earlier post was that a swap like that only makes sense if you're going to wind up with enough of a difference, to make a difference. If you go from 3.07 to 3.90, that's a 27% jump and you should feel it, although I don't know if it's going to give you what you're after. But if you have 3.64 gears, 3.90 is only a 7.5% difference. It's just not worth the time and trouble.
 

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Hate to tell you but with the 3.5 you're not going to gain much. If you don't want the expense of a tuner when you figure what it's going to cost to swap the differential you're going to go into sticker shock. Plus you'll need to change the gear ratio in the PCM or you'll be in limp mode so you'll most likely need the tuner to change that. Hate to tell you adding horse power is not cheap, especially for Mopars. I'm also wondering why you are posting similar questions over on the Charger site.
how would it not gain much?

changing ratios means lower gears for taking off from a stop. it definitely improves torque because its like driving with a different transmission
 

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Hate to tell you but with the 3.5 you're not going to gain much. If you don't want the expense of a tuner when you figure what it's going to cost to swap the differential you're going to go into sticker shock. Plus you'll need to change the gear ratio in the PCM or you'll be in limp mode so you'll most likely need the tuner to change that. Hate to tell you adding horse power is not cheap, especially for Mopars. I'm also wondering why you are posting similar questions over on the Charger site.
how would it not gain much?

changing ratios means lower gears for taking off from a stop. it definitely improves torque because its like driving with a different transmission
 

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Go here and get your build sheet. That will tell you what rear end was in it when it left the factory. If a previous owner changed it and didn't document it in some helpful way, there's no way to know. You could try this method to calculate the gear ratio yourself.

Whatever ratio you have, changing it is a big job. If you want to know what that's like, Google "Programming for new gears and possible abs work around" with the quotes. If you pay someone to do it, it's going to be very expensive. If you do it yourself, you may be able to keep a lid on the costs, but it still won't be cheap or easy.

The point of my earlier post was that a swap like that only makes sense if you're going to wind up with enough of a difference, to make a difference. If you go from 3.07 to 3.90, that's a 27% jump and you should feel it, although I don't know if it's going to give you what you're after. But if you have 3.64 gears, 3.90 is only a 7.5% difference. It's just not worth the time and trouble.
ive had complaints comparing it to a crown vic but realistically its a good comparison. almost identical horsepower. very similar torque. and almost the same weight makes a good comparison

when i upgraded my 2.73 to 3.27 i definitely noticed a difference

now going from 3.06 to 3.64 is actually .04 MORE than that. so id assume id definitely feel it.

according to track results on The crown Vic it was able to shave off .5 to an entire second 0-60

so I'm not sure why there's so much hate is this idea? Yes it's not going to be a V8 super car racingg nascar but itll be plenty good id assume unless someone has real world experiencee otherwisee
 

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If you want to spend probably $1000+ to change out your differential for maybe .3 to .5 second gain go for it but like I said you also have to change the gear ratio in the PCM or you'll be in limp mode due to the mismatch. My guess is you'll have a couple of grand in it to swap out the differential plus the tuner. It's not that people hate the idea but you're going to spend a ton of money to do what little bit of gain you're talking about. You don't just change out the ring/pinion in these cars, you swap out the whole differential which may include half shafts depending on what you get. It's a lot more work than probably what you are thinking. The 3.5 is limited to what you can do, the later model 3.6 liter has a lot more options and also reacts better with the tunes but that's of no consequence here.
 

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ive had complaints comparing it to a crown vic but realistically its a good comparison. almost identical horsepower. very similar torque. and almost the same weight makes a good comparison

when i upgraded my 2.73 to 3.27 i definitely noticed a difference

now going from 3.06 to 3.64 is actually .04 MORE than that. so id assume id definitely feel it.

according to track results on The crown Vic it was able to shave off .5 to an entire second 0-60

so I'm not sure why there's so much hate is this idea? Yes it's not going to be a V8 super car racingg nascar but itll be plenty good id assume unless someone has real world experiencee otherwisee
You've got to get off this Crown Vic thing. The comparison is not useful, because there are too many other variables that you're not taking into consideration. For example:

The Crown Vic had a R470W transmission with four widely-spaced gears; First: 2.84 :1, Second: 1.55 :1, Third: 1.00 :1 and Overdrive: 0.70 :1.

Your 300 Touring should have a NAG1, with five closely spaced gears; First: 3.59:1, Second: 2.19:1, Third: 1.41:1, Fourth: 1.00:1, and Overdrive: 0.83:1.

Look at the difference in those ratios and you'll see why the 300 will not respond to a change in final drive ratio the way the Crown Vic did.

There's no hate here. The problem is that you ask for a lot of advice but rarely take any. Instead you perseverate on ideas that you believe are good ones, to the point where it looks like what you really want is affirmation (Yeah, but...). When you first complained about the performance of your 300, I suggested a relatively economical solution for a small performance increase; to swap out your restrictive factory single exhaust for a take-off dual exhaust from an R/T. As I recall, you immediately dismissed that idea, declaring that dual exhaust would ruin your low-end power, despite more than sixty years of hot-rodding evidence to the contrary and the fact that Dodge still installs factory dual exhaust on their higher-end V-6 Chargers. I made another low-cost suggestion, that you look for a used tuner for $150-200 or so. I believed then, and still do, that those two modifications will get you just about all the power and driveability you can reasonably find in a 14-year-old Iacocca-era 3.5.

Instead you ask about relatively expensive and impractical solutions like changing the final drive ratio, despite the fact that it's not even worth spending five minutes talking about it when you don't know what you have in there now. The answers you want aren't readily available, because nobody buys a 3.5 LX and spends a thousand dollars or so swapping rear differentials. Most folks disappointed with the power of the 3.5 either discover that on their first test drive and buy something else, or take the money they might have spent modding the 3.5 and put it aside for a future Hemi purchase. So I don't think you're going to find a 3.5 owner who swapped his 3.07 out for a 3.64 and carefully documented the results.

You're asking an awful lot from the 3.5. At the end of the day, it's a small engine pulling a porky two-ton boulevard cruiser. It already puts out over 70 HP per liter...that's substantially more than the Hemi, incidentally...and there's not a lot of room for improvement.
 

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You've got to get off this Crown Vic thing. The comparison is not useful, because there are too many other variables that you're not taking into consideration. For example:

The Crown Vic had a R470W transmission with four widely-spaced gears; First: 2.84 :1, Second: 1.55 :1, Third: 1.00 :1 and Overdrive: 0.70 :1.

Your 300 Touring should have a NAG1, with five closely spaced gears; First: 3.59:1, Second: 2.19:1, Third: 1.41:1, Fourth: 1.00:1, and Overdrive: 0.83:1.

Look at the difference in those ratios and you'll see why the 300 will not respond to a change in final drive ratio the way the Crown Vic did.

There's no hate here. The problem is that you ask for a lot of advice but rarely take any. Instead you perseverate on ideas that you believe are good ones, to the point where it looks like what you really want is affirmation (Yeah, but...). When you first complained about the performance of your 300, I suggested a relatively economical solution for a small performance increase; to swap out your restrictive factory single exhaust for a take-off dual exhaust from an R/T. As I recall, you immediately dismissed that idea, declaring that dual exhaust would ruin your low-end power, despite more than sixty years of hot-rodding evidence to the contrary and the fact that Dodge still installs factory dual exhaust on their higher-end V-6 Chargers. I made another low-cost suggestion, that you look for a used tuner for $150-200 or so. I believed then, and still do, that those two modifications will get you just about all the power and driveability you can reasonably find in a 14-year-old Iacocca-era 3.5.

Instead you ask about relatively expensive and impractical solutions like changing the final drive ratio, despite the fact that it's not even worth spending five minutes talking about it when you don't know what you have in there now. The answers you want aren't readily available, because nobody buys a 3.5 LX and spends a thousand dollars or so swapping rear differentials. Most folks disappointed with the power of the 3.5 either discover that on their first test drive and buy something else, or take the money they might have spent modding the 3.5 and put it aside for a future Hemi purchase. So I don't think you're going to find a 3.5 owner who swapped his 3.07 out for a 3.64 and carefully documented the results.

You're asking an awful lot from the 3.5. At the end of the day, it's a small engine pulling a porky two-ton boulevard cruiser. It already puts out over 70 HP per liter...that's substantially more than the Hemi, incidentally...and there's not a lot of room for improvement.
talk about me ignoring your suggestions but I didn't. You suggested swapping out the exhaust for a dual exhaust and you claim that it works but what evidence do you have for that? maybe it does for the newer higher-end 3.6 l v6 is and maybe even for the older 3.5 l v6 it generates more horsepower at the high end but off the line? it's going to lose back pressure. You say that there's 60 years of experience but the car hasn't been out for 60 years so clearly it's not 60 years of experience with THAT car


as far as people who have done it? I've seen in the forums plenty of people who have put in cold air intakes and swapped out to an SRT exhaust system and they're talkin about 0 to 60 and 8.5 seconds. They say that after they do a tune and some other things they managed to get it down to the factory stock 7.5

the round I've seen it. Dailey method the mobs they've done are things like dual exhaust and cold-air intake and talk about how impressed they are there after a tune it went from 8.3 seconds to 7.5. it's rated stock at 7.5 and regularly achieves that with no modifications. so these people clearly put in mods just because they sounded decent and because that's what racers do without thinking of the consequences and clearly that ended up hurting their low in performance and performance overall until they did a tune which brought it back down to factory stock speed. so they spent like $500 for zero improvements..

the look I've seen it. they're constantly talking about how I've got cold air intakes k&n and SRT exhaust and then a predator tune and they get 7.5 seconds 0 to 60. which is what it gets straight off the factory.. its what i gett

why would I spend all that money to get the same exact numbers?.

I bought the tuner. You should just it and I bought it. It doesn't do much. Even the 93 octane tune is barely noticeable difference. I can kind of sort of notice it sometimes but if I wasn't looking for it I probably wouldn't even know anything was different. I don't see the point in spending so much extra money for 93 octane for something that you have to search too even notice

I want better low in performance. All of the research in these very forums doesn't back up the idea that less back pressure will give me more off-the-line torquee

I haven't seen a single person claim that

yes I'm sure that a better exhaust will give me more power on the highway at high RPMs. I'm sure if you're racing it down the drug strip you'll definitely notice a difference. but I'm not racing it. I didn't buy it to be a race car. If I wanted a restar I would have bought the V8..

I just want something that's more quick from the red light and can merge onto the highway quicker. not something that I have to floor atenolol on a long stretch of flat road to get up to high RPMs where I can finally feel it start to take offf

I'm sure all of these mods work great if you take it to a drag strip and you floor it on a long stretch of flat road on a quarter mile and you get it all the way up to 6000 RPM and use the auto stick to make sure that you're constantly shifting and staying in that torque wrench. but that's not the same as driving on City roads and on the highway. If I want to quickly pass a car on the highway after I'm just cruising for a little while having high RPM torque in a car modded for racing isn't going to helpp


all I want is better low RPM tour. I want it to feel decent after I stopped at a stoplight. I want to be able to merge onto the highway better and pass other cars without flooring it until I can get to five or six thousand RPM..

I don't want to have to sell this car I just bought and buy a 14k dollar 3.6 accomplish that. I think it's very reasonable to assume that it can be accomplished..

about the predator you told me to buy. It didn't do much. It doesn't even have options to change the shift points let alone most other things. I'm pretty sure one of the only things that actually changes is the spark time so they can accept 93 octanee

I have no reason to believe based on all the research that an exhaust made for a 5.7l V8 is going to help any better..

I've look thruu the forums and I don't see anybody claiming that it has..

and I'm not really willing to spend hundreds of dollars to install it based on a maybe and then also risked the idea that I was right and the forums were right and it actually reduces back pressure and has lower off the line torque meaning I would have to spend hundreds of dollars to switch back

not to mention the fact that the people who did put the cold air intake and SRT exhaust on we're reporting things like 8.3 seconds so it's clearly not a magic cure-all..

generally if you want to get thicker off the line torque you need lower gears.

the newer 3.6 is quicker off the line because first gear is something like 4.10..

lower gears work. based on that basic principle it seems that getting a lower rear end differential would be the best way to get better low-end torque. clicker off the line and when I downshift it will also be quicker to pass


it's basic common sense. And it's been proven to work and every other car. That's why Chrysler and Dodge created the newerr transmission


I don't see how my dual exhaust is going to make it first off the line from a complete stop quicker than it would with just lower gears. That's why what I'm asking is to find out the differences between the different gear ratios so that I can install them..

and I'm not making this up this is from research and common Sense. And people are saying that it's not going to work because the normal sing for ricers is to slap on every basic bitch mod they heard aboutt

I'm not going to get the performance that I'm looking for from a dual exhaust. unless that dual exhaust increases the horsepower by 50 soo it's a 300 horsepower car there's no way it's even going to come closee

I'm sure it's a great mod for some applications area if you're racing it on a drag strip if you've got a V8 or if you just maxed out everything and trying to get that little bit of extra ponies that you can squeeze out of it. That's not what I'm after..

and I don't get how people are telling me it's at the rear end differential isn't going to make a difference when it's been proven to work on every application including Dodge. it's been proven to work so well that even Dodge Chrysler implemented it on their own Dodge chargers..

what the high-end VA having a 3.06 the 3.5 having probably a 3.64 and the 2.7 l weather 3.90. Even though she understood it exists and it works..

thanks for trying to get more tour one of the lower performance engine the easiest way to do it is with the differential..

I'm tired of everybody telling me that let the professionals are saying and doing is wrong. I'm tired of people telling you that despite the fact that posts by people who have done it in this zone forum are saying otherwise it's somehow it's going to work. People in this very forum said that the cold air intake and dual exhaust doesn't work. when you have a 7.5 second car doing 8.3 after they've added those mmods that implies it probably doesn't work..

I just want better low-end torque. That's it. And there's such a huge difference in price between what I paid for the car and what a 2013 3.6 would cod there's a lot of wiggle room for changing the rear endd

Id have to spend like $7000 for it to match the difference in price

theoretically I couldd install a supercharger and still save money

so all I want is better off the line and better low-end torque. You do that with lower gears.. short of getting a custom built transmission the best way to do that is with the rear end differential. That's what I want to do. hasn't been a car in history that hasn't seen improvements after getting a larger rear end differential..

it would be a one-time mod and it would make it better and more drivable and I wouldn't have to run overpriced 93 octane or abunch of bolt o crap that might or might not work..

I mean is already technically has a cold air intake. The intake goes down to the behind the fog light

technically that's cold air intake. even if it could be betterr

I don't see the problem. I'm saying from my own experience that the tuner didn't do anything. or they barely did anything. it's pretty obvious but inexpensive exhaust upgrade isn't going to massively improve off the line performance. it's pretty obvious that even had a lower starting gear it would. so I want to know is what the best options for changing that are.
 

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talk about me ignoring your suggestions but I didn't. You suggested swapping out the exhaust for a dual exhaust and you claim that it works but what evidence do you have for that? maybe it does for the newer higher-end 3.6 l v6 is and maybe even for the older 3.5 l v6 it generates more horsepower at the high end but off the line? it's going to lose back pressure. You say that there's 60 years of experience but the car hasn't been out for 60 years so clearly it's not 60 years of experience with THAT car


as far as people who have done it? I've seen in the forums plenty of people who have put in cold air intakes and swapped out to an SRT exhaust system and they're talkin about 0 to 60 and 8.5 seconds. They say that after they do a tune and some other things they managed to get it down to the factory stock 7.5

the round I've seen it. Dailey method the mobs they've done are things like dual exhaust and cold-air intake and talk about how impressed they are there after a tune it went from 8.3 seconds to 7.5. it's rated stock at 7.5 and regularly achieves that with no modifications. so these people clearly put in mods just because they sounded decent and because that's what racers do without thinking of the consequences and clearly that ended up hurting their low in performance and performance overall until they did a tune which brought it back down to factory stock speed. so they spent like $500 for zero improvements..

the look I've seen it. they're constantly talking about how I've got cold air intakes k&n and SRT exhaust and then a predator tune and they get 7.5 seconds 0 to 60. which is what it gets straight off the factory.. its what i gett

why would I spend all that money to get the same exact numbers?.

I bought the tuner. You should just it and I bought it. It doesn't do much. Even the 93 octane tune is barely noticeable difference. I can kind of sort of notice it sometimes but if I wasn't looking for it I probably wouldn't even know anything was different. I don't see the point in spending so much extra money for 93 octane for something that you have to search too even notice

I want better low in performance. All of the research in these very forums doesn't back up the idea that less back pressure will give me more off-the-line torquee

I haven't seen a single person claim that

yes I'm sure that a better exhaust will give me more power on the highway at high RPMs. I'm sure if you're racing it down the drug strip you'll definitely notice a difference. but I'm not racing it. I didn't buy it to be a race car. If I wanted a restar I would have bought the V8..

I just want something that's more quick from the red light and can merge onto the highway quicker. not something that I have to floor atenolol on a long stretch of flat road to get up to high RPMs where I can finally feel it start to take offf

I'm sure all of these mods work great if you take it to a drag strip and you floor it on a long stretch of flat road on a quarter mile and you get it all the way up to 6000 RPM and use the auto stick to make sure that you're constantly shifting and staying in that torque wrench. but that's not the same as driving on City roads and on the highway. If I want to quickly pass a car on the highway after I'm just cruising for a little while having high RPM torque in a car modded for racing isn't going to helpp


all I want is better low RPM tour. I want it to feel decent after I stopped at a stoplight. I want to be able to merge onto the highway better and pass other cars without flooring it until I can get to five or six thousand RPM..

I don't want to have to sell this car I just bought and buy a 14k dollar 3.6 accomplish that. I think it's very reasonable to assume that it can be accomplished..

about the predator you told me to buy. It didn't do much. It doesn't even have options to change the shift points let alone most other things. I'm pretty sure one of the only things that actually changes is the spark time so they can accept 93 octanee

I have no reason to believe based on all the research that an exhaust made for a 5.7l V8 is going to help any better..

I've look thruu the forums and I don't see anybody claiming that it has..

and I'm not really willing to spend hundreds of dollars to install it based on a maybe and then also risked the idea that I was right and the forums were right and it actually reduces back pressure and has lower off the line torque meaning I would have to spend hundreds of dollars to switch back

not to mention the fact that the people who did put the cold air intake and SRT exhaust on we're reporting things like 8.3 seconds so it's clearly not a magic cure-all..

generally if you want to get thicker off the line torque you need lower gears.

the newer 3.6 is quicker off the line because first gear is something like 4.10..

lower gears work. based on that basic principle it seems that getting a lower rear end differential would be the best way to get better low-end torque. clicker off the line and when I downshift it will also be quicker to pass


it's basic common sense. And it's been proven to work and every other car. That's why Chrysler and Dodge created the newerr transmission


I don't see how my dual exhaust is going to make it first off the line from a complete stop quicker than it would with just lower gears. That's why what I'm asking is to find out the differences between the different gear ratios so that I can install them..

and I'm not making this up this is from research and common Sense. And people are saying that it's not going to work because the normal sing for ricers is to slap on every basic bitch mod they heard aboutt

I'm not going to get the performance that I'm looking for from a dual exhaust. unless that dual exhaust increases the horsepower by 50 soo it's a 300 horsepower car there's no way it's even going to come closee

I'm sure it's a great mod for some applications area if you're racing it on a drag strip if you've got a V8 or if you just maxed out everything and trying to get that little bit of extra ponies that you can squeeze out of it. That's not what I'm after..

and I don't get how people are telling me it's at the rear end differential isn't going to make a difference when it's been proven to work on every application including Dodge. it's been proven to work so well that even Dodge Chrysler implemented it on their own Dodge chargers..

what the high-end VA having a 3.06 the 3.5 having probably a 3.64 and the 2.7 l weather 3.90. Even though she understood it exists and it works..

thanks for trying to get more tour one of the lower performance engine the easiest way to do it is with the differential..

I'm tired of everybody telling me that let the professionals are saying and doing is wrong. I'm tired of people telling you that despite the fact that posts by people who have done it in this zone forum are saying otherwise it's somehow it's going to work. People in this very forum said that the cold air intake and dual exhaust doesn't work. when you have a 7.5 second car doing 8.3 after they've added those mmods that implies it probably doesn't work..

I just want better low-end torque. That's it. And there's such a huge difference in price between what I paid for the car and what a 2013 3.6 would cod there's a lot of wiggle room for changing the rear endd

Id have to spend like $7000 for it to match the difference in price

theoretically I couldd install a supercharger and still save money

so all I want is better off the line and better low-end torque. You do that with lower gears.. short of getting a custom built transmission the best way to do that is with the rear end differential. That's what I want to do. hasn't been a car in history that hasn't seen improvements after getting a larger rear end differential..

it would be a one-time mod and it would make it better and more drivable and I wouldn't have to run overpriced 93 octane or abunch of bolt o crap that might or might not work..

I mean is already technically has a cold air intake. The intake goes down to the behind the fog light

technically that's cold air intake. even if it could be betterr

I don't see the problem. I'm saying from my own experience that the tuner didn't do anything. or they barely did anything. it's pretty obvious but inexpensive exhaust upgrade isn't going to massively improve off the line performance. it's pretty obvious that even had a lower starting gear it would. so I want to know is what the best options for changing that are.
Hey, it's your car. Spend your money however you want or maybe go back to the Crown Vic. I think you've pretty much alienated everyone who was trying to help. You've made up your mind on what you want to do you just want someone to back you up on it. Should have done your homework before you bought the car, performance is not cheap. I'm done.....
 
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