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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

New to this so bare with me. I've searched through the forumns and can't find quite what I'm experiencing, so forgive me if this has been asked before.

I have a 2015 Chrysler 300 S with about 110,000 miles. I'm hearing what sounds like an engine knock. Sounds like it's coming from the top right of the car. It only happens once the car has been warned up for 5-10 mins. It seems to be speed related and not RPM, only happens when I'm decelerating/coasting below 40mph. If I touch the gas it goes away. The speed of the noise is directly related to how fast I'm going. It is a rythnic noise and doesn't sound metallic. Almost sounds like road noise but a lot louder. There is no vibration, although I can feel the knock slightly in the gas pedal if I rest my foot on it. Had a mechanic check the drive shaft as I was suspecting an issue with the u-joints. He said all is well there, and that he couldn't recreate the noise (he didn't take it for a long drive so I assume this is why.) I was then thinking rod knock but it stops with even slight acceleration and doesn't happen in idle. I've switched it into neutral while coasting and it makes no change in the sound. Braking does not interfere with the sound either.

Checked the tires for rocks, made sure my lug nuts were tight, oil was just changed and a trans flush was completed about 3 weeks ago. I'm at a loss here, I'll be getting it into another shop in the next few days but just wanted to hear opinions or if anyone's experienced this before I go in. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hello all.

New to this so bare with me. I've searched through the forumns and can't find quite what I'm experiencing, so forgive me if this has been asked before.

I have a 2015 Chrysler 300 S with about 110,000 miles. I'm hearing what sounds like an engine knock. Sounds like it's coming from the top right of the car. It only happens once the car has been warned up for 5-10 mins. It seems to be speed related and not RPM, only happens when I'm decelerating/coasting below 40mph. If I touch the gas it goes away. The speed of the noise is directly related to how fast I'm going. It is a rythnic noise and doesn't sound metallic. Almost sounds like road noise but a lot louder. There is no vibration, although I can feel the knock slightly in the gas pedal if I rest my foot on it. Had a mechanic check the drive shaft as I was suspecting an issue with the u-joints. He said all is well there, and that he couldn't recreate the noise (he didn't take it for a long drive so I assume this is why.) I was then thinking rod knock but it stops with even slight acceleration and doesn't happen in idle. I've switched it into neutral while coasting and it makes no change in the sound. Braking does not interfere with the sound either.

Checked the tires for rocks, made sure my lug nuts were tight, oil was just changed and a trans flush was completed about 3 weeks ago. I'm at a loss here, I'll be getting it into another shop in the next few days but just wanted to hear opinions or if anyone's experienced this before I go in. Thanks in advance.
I know no one replied to this lol. But it was the rear drive shaft. Best way to explain the noise was a card in a bike tire, just louder (I am not good with noises, forgive me.) Had it replaced and the rear axle boot tore a month later. Hope none of y'all have as bad of luck as me. 馃槵
 

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I have a 2015 300 Limited. It is a V6 with 153,xxx miles. This past summer it too started having the problems that you described - playing card stuck in a bicycle tire flutter. It would only make the noise after 10-15 minute warm up and after it warmed up, the sound was like a playing card in spokes and loud. Turns out it was the carrier barring that is built into the driveshaft. My husband had to replace the full driveshaft as it was a full piece unit - the carrier barring was the culprit and it is not replaceable other than replacing the full driveshaft. You will need to put the car up in the air and lift up on the center area of the driveshaft. If it moves the carrier barring is bad. You will need to locate a new or used full complete driveshaft. My husband could not find a new one as they were all out of stock across the US. He worked with a local junk yard and was able locate a low mileage used driveshaft and replaced ours with it.

Old driveshaft with torn/worn carrier barring - notice the chewed carrier barring - that piece is suppose to be coupled to the piece in front that is tilted to the left - it has broken/separated apart.
Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt Motor vehicle Saw


New driveshaft - carrier barring is connected to the coupler
Automotive tire Asphalt Road surface Wood Plant


Hope this helps you find out what is wrong with your 300.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Karen Schrader it actually was exactly that! I ended up having to go with a new one, all the used ones I tried obtaining were junk as well. Thank you so much for your reply. Now im dealing with a torn axle boot in the rear, hopefully that isn't as much of a s**t show as the drive shaft was.
 
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