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Discussion Starter #21
Update: Not quite "completely" fixed.

In my last post, I stated the issue was solved but, as it turns out, it is only partially fixed. I can, at least, drive it now but it has thrown the ETC light on a couple of times now. I have been trying to put together what was going on at the time it happened. The first time, I was going up an incline and around a curve to the left when it freaked. (In a local park) The other two times, I was turning left. I know the issue is connected with the PCM plug harnesses and/or PCM and now I am wondering if there is something moving when I turn a certain way. It is drivable but I am really bummed that the issue is not completely resolved. There has to be something loose somewhere that is shorting it out. Either that or something is loose in the computer but that seems unlikely. It is definitely better than it was before so I know the things I have done so far have made a difference. I just don't know why they have not completely solved the problem.

Next weekend I will try to get the car jacked up high enough to get a good look at the wires from underneath. Based on the symptoms I have provided, does anyone have any other ideas? I am still thinking it is not the PCM but getting irritated enough to purchase one just to rule it out. I hate not having confidence in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Finally fixed!!

Ok... for anyone still viewing this thread (Not many based on responses), this issue is finally resolved. As you might remember from my last post, I had thought this was fixed but then the problem came back.

This past weekend, I set aside a couple of hours to replace the spark plugs (car has over 150k on it) and recheck all connections. I always check the condition and gap on the old plugs as that can sometimes help diagnose current issues. The gap on the plugs should to be at .045 (5.7L hemi). The gap on the old plugs ranged from .060 to .075+. (Way off!) Gapped and installed new plugs to specs. Of course, used plenty of dielectric compound on boots.
With battery disconnected, removed PCM and, for the second time, sprayed the plugs and sockets with CRC dry solvent. I also checked over each plug and socket with a magnifying glass to inspect for any possible damage. (Bent pins, etc.) All looked good so I reconnected to computer and locked each plug in place. The third plug was a bear to get locked in but, after multiple tries, it finally went in and locked. (Problem with seal)

Reconnected the battery and started the car. Started up and ran perfect. Took it out for a long spin and all was good. I have been driving it for almost 3 days and no issues. I am deliberately driving it a bit hard to see if I can recreate the issue and it really appears to be resolved now.

I still believe the plugs on the PCM were the issue but I have to believe the spark plugs being that worn also weren't helping. I wonder if the computer had an issue with the spark on the plugs and threw it into "Limp home mode" because of that?

Now I just need to reset the MDS (Saw a post somewhere on here for that) and I think I'm good to go. Time to start looking at some mods. (HID lights, grille, etc.)

:smiley_thumbs_up::smiley_thumbs_up:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Update

I am ready to shoot this &^%$ car in the grille. I am apparently back to square one as it is doing the same thing again. I must be on to something with the computer and/or connections though as it worked fine for 4 days after I disconnected and reconnected those. Either that or I bumped another wire somewhere else that is the real problem. (Just can't see it) If I didn't still owe money on this car, I'm pretty sure I would have driven it off a cliff by now.

If anyone has any ideas, I am absolutely all ears. :kap:
 

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Hi
Catch can gets installed Monday,the mechanic got it today,said there was no oil on the swirl actuator, below is what Chrysler said. ETC light would come on an I had to use the key cycle to get it reset worked a couple days an comes back, below is the dealers reply
Hei

There are no faults in the engine control unit regarding emmission.

The only faults in the car is related to all ekstra equipment mounted in the car. (CAN BUS disturbance)

He said it was my after market Kenwood causing the problem, I highly doubt that, it has a can bus in it for the steering controls. Its been in the car since new.
They deleted the code error, but just have to see I guess when I come back from offshore an drive the car again, but I have orderd the new intake tube for the turbo to prevent an leakage. I think driving my car back an forth from Norway to Spain a couple times a year keeps oil from building up ( I do not know I am no expert)
 

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hey raw2005 i got the same problem it just came out of nowhere i got 83000 on mine im bout to change the plugs n the throttle body n see what happens then. u were getting me happy as i read on i was hoping that u had found a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Car still screwing up

hey raw2005 i got the same problem it just came out of nowhere i got 83000 on mine im bout to change the plugs n the throttle body n see what happens then. u were getting me happy as i read on i was hoping that u had found a solution.
I'm still having the same problem only worse. It NEVER runs right now. (ETC light always on and limp mode) I changed my plugs too and it ran great for a couple of days then the problem was back. I had ordered a PCM from a company that seemed reputable but that didn't work out. (Long story) If you go back further in this thread, you will see a list of the items I have replaced so far with no luck.

I still think the problem is electrical. I can see my dash lights flicker a bit at night and the voltage readout on the battery is up and down (hidden diagnostic menu). I really need to get the car up on a lift so I can walk around underneath and look for any wires that might be shorting out. I "think" I have checked all the ground wires but there are several on this car and it's possible I missed one. The PCM on this car is so flakey and wigs out with just about any kind of electrical anomaly. I have had it into the dealer 3 times and I'm not sure if they checked my Alternator or not. Along with trying to look at wires again, the alternator is next.
 

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I hope you get the problem fixed soon. I couldn't imagine being without my 300 for that long.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I hope you get the problem fixed soon. I couldn't imagine being without my 300 for that long.

I am actually driving it because I have to. (No other options right now) I have a 50 mile commute to work and it takes forever (45 mph max speed). Everything that has happened is screaming loose wire or bad connection but I haven't been able to find it. I also can't afford to take it to the stealership and pay them $95 an hour to find it. The codes I'm getting seem to be connected with the symptoms and not the actual cause so they haven't been much help.

I have tried mentally tracing this all the way back to when it started. The first major thing replaced was the EGR valve but it had gone into limp mode once before I changed that. The EGR valve was a relatively easy thing to change and I don't think I missed anything when I did it.

The brakes need to be done but I don't think that would cause the computer to throw the car into limp mode?? I know there are sensors on the wheels (speed sensors?) and I started wondering if one of them might be bad.

Really not liking my car these days.
 

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man i know how u feel mine is at the stealership now $800. 00 for new throttle body 97.00 for software update. this is killing me. i pick her up tomorrow if it aint working right i dont know what else to do.
 

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Dude, I had the same issues with my 300C, I tried the TPS recalibrate and it would help for a bit and then the car would start running crappy again. I bought the car used and it had always had a slight "surge" at part throttle and would also have a dead spot when accelerating, I tried everything that I could think of with no appreciable change. So this weekend I tried pulling the battery cable and doing a reset on the computer, I put the cable back on and started the car, it ran ok so I took it for a spin. While it ran better it still wasn't great, and also the ESP/BAS light came on. I went to check the fuel mileage and noticed that there was no function in any of the steering wheel controls. Being frustrated about the latest problem I scanned the threads and found the procedure for re-fitting the battery cable and what to do before driving the car, it states that if the car is equipped with ESP stability control- You MUST start the car turn the wheels to the left then right (full lock both ways), then center them and shut the car off (this recalibrates the system), then restart it. I followed the procedure and amazingly my wheel controls work and now the car runs like it should ie: no surge, no hesitation and the fuel millage is MUCH better and it hauls butt like it should. I thought I would post this for other folks that are having issues, my car had been to the dealer a couple of times also, my hunch is they did not follow this procedure when they reconnected the battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Dude, I had the same issues with my 300C, I tried the TPS recalibrate and it would help for a bit and then the car would start running crappy again. I bought the car used and it had always had a slight "surge" at part throttle and would also have a dead spot when accelerating, I tried everything that I could think of with no appreciable change. So this weekend I tried pulling the battery cable and doing a reset on the computer, I put the cable back on and started the car, it ran ok so I took it for a spin. While it ran better it still wasn't great, and also the ESP/BAS light came on. I went to check the fuel mileage and noticed that there was no function in any of the steering wheel controls. Being frustrated about the latest problem I scanned the threads and found the procedure for re-fitting the battery cable and what to do before driving the car, it states that if the car is equipped with ESP stability control- You MUST start the car turn the wheels to the left then right (full lock both ways), then center them and shut the car off (this recalibrates the system), then restart it. I followed the procedure and amazingly my wheel controls work and now the car runs like it should ie: no surge, no hesitation and the fuel millage is MUCH better and it hauls butt like it should. I thought I would post this for other folks that are having issues, my car had been to the dealer a couple of times also, my hunch is they did not follow this procedure when they reconnected the battery cable.
I have done the ESP reset procedure (left/right with steering wheel) but the issue I am having is worse in that the ETC light (red lightning bolt) is also on and the car is in limp mode. I have the service manual (pdf format) and have exported the wiring index and diagrams containing the positions of all grounds in the car. I am hoping that I will get lucky and be able to find a loose ground. I have replaced everything at this point except the TCM and PCM. I don't believe it is the TCM and I am not convinced (yet) that it is the PCM. Once I finally get all the wires checked, I will have to go the next step and purchase a new computer (PCM). That will set me back about $500 plus the cost of getting it programmed. (another $75 to $95)

Whoever thought up the wiring in this car was a complete dunce. That and the fact that the PCM is so touchy that if anything is not quite right, it goes into alert mode and takes away all throttle. If the programmers had any brains, they would have spent a little more time on the codes it provides to help point you in the direction of the real problem. As it stands, its like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Hell, you know you have problems when a 20 year veteran Chrysler tech is telling you he doesn't know what's wrong and keeps suggesting you replace another part.
If I ever get this fixed, I am getting rid of it. I will never, I repeat, NEVER buy another Chrysler.
 

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i'm having the same prob with my 05 c . the prob with mine is the pcm. on the middle connetor (orange) the #6 and #20 control the etc (#6 is the positive) iwas testing mine, i had all the wires exposed with the car running if i would would barely touch the #6 wire it would throw the codes. turn it off . cycle the key, restart car runs fine. the prob must be where the pin is attached the circut board. hope this helps someone.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
i'm having the same prob with my 05 c . the prob with mine is the pcm. on the middle connetor (orange) the #6 and #20 control the etc (#6 is the positive) iwas testing mine, i had all the wires exposed with the car running if i would would barely touch the #6 wire it would throw the codes. turn it off . cycle the key, restart car runs fine. the prob must be where the pin is attached the circut board. hope this helps someone.

Sorry I'm so late reading your response. Your description may actually fit with what my car is doing. Last week, it was extremely cold outside (1 - 7%) in the morning and I started the car to take it to work. Instead of starting in limp mode, it started normally. It ran ok for only a minute or two and then freaked out again. I drove it about 12 miles and then pulled over at the onramp to get on the interstate. I shut if off and waited a couple of seconds and then started it again. It started normally and ran fine all the way to the town I was going to (about 40 miles). Once I got in town and stopped at a couple of lights, it freaked out again. Since then, I have followed that same procedure 2 or three times, when it was extremely cold out, and it worked each time. Since the temp has been up into the 20's, it won't work.

My thought is that it is something on the PCM's circuit board that separates or becomes loose, once it warms up a bit. When the temps were in the single digits and I was doing 65mph on the highway, there was enough frigid cold air rushing in to keep the PCM from ever warming up. Once I got into town and was only doing 35mph and stopping at traffic lights, the heat from the engine circulated enough that it heated up the PCM. All of this is, of course, just theory as I have not confirmed any of it. I have a new PCM on order but there were about 15 people ahead of me on the list (part was on backorder) so I don't know when I will get it.

I thought about pulling the PCM and opening it up (have done so once before) but I can't risk something getting worse as I HAVE to drive my car right now (no other options).

Your info about the connectors in the PCM has me thinking though. That could actually have something to do with the issue. Sadly, I won't really know if it is the PCM until the new one arrives and I get it programmed and installed. If the car still goes into limp mode with a new PCM installed, I am back to square one.

Did you fix the issue with your PCM or did you just order a new one?
 

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Hey Raw2005

Just wanted to know if you had any breakthroughs with your ETC issues. I get some comfort in seeing that I'm not the only one with these issues on my 05 300C. Since this issue popped up, I have replaced the TB, Temp Control Sensor, did the pedal recalibration procedure, pulled fuse 11, and had the dealer flash the TCM with the latest firmware as per bulletin.

My next step was the Pedal Position sensor/assembly, or the PCM, but after reading through these posts, seems like it probably won't help.

Thought I caught onto something when I saw in the posts about wires in the trunk area, as I was changing a tire when the issue started to happen. I also examined the wire harnesses in the trunk thinking maybe I pinched a wire putting the spare back, but found nothing.

Has ANYONE resolved this issue with their car? Mine has been pretty much rendered useless. The car has sat for the last 2 months, and I feel like a beaten man!
 

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Just wanted to know if you had any breakthroughs with your ETC issues. I get some comfort in seeing that I'm not the only one with these issues on my 05 300C. Since this issue popped up, I have replaced the TB, Temp Control Sensor, did the pedal recalibration procedure, pulled fuse 11, and had the dealer flash the TCM with the latest firmware as per bulletin.

My next step was the Pedal Position sensor/assembly, or the PCM, but after reading through these posts, seems like it probably won't help.

Thought I caught onto something when I saw in the posts about wires in the trunk area, as I was changing a tire when the issue started to happen. I also examined the wire harnesses in the trunk thinking maybe I pinched a wire putting the spare back, but found nothing.

Has ANYONE resolved this issue with their car? Mine has been pretty much rendered useless. The car has sat for the last 2 months, and I feel like a beaten man!
I am in the SAME Boat...same issue...been beating my head against it the last few days...

Raw2005, any luck with yours?
 

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The same thing is happening with my 2006 Chrysler 300. Last week, my engine light came on. I brought it the car parts store and they diagnosed a bad EGR Valve. I had the EGR replaced two days ago (a favor from a friend). When I left his shop, the car ran great! About 2 miles down the road, the ETC light (red flashing bolt) and the ESP/BAS light came on. I couldn't get the car to go over 35-40 mph without it sputtering and jerking. I made it home with my emergency hazards on. Checked all the connections and hoses and everything seemed to be put back together correctly. Cleaned the throttle body tightened everything. Test drove the car and everything seemed fine, until about 15 minutes later. Lights started flashing again and the car drove like crap. Only this time, the CHECK ENGINE light was on with the others. Autozone pulled code P0113 (Air Intake Sensor?). Anyway, does anyone know if this little sensor is the cause of these seeminly major issues with car?? Could the computer need to be updated? (unhooking battery for 5 min didn't work) Or could it be that my friend who replaced the EGR Valve knocked something loose??? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I have a 2005 mag have got the same problems as raw 2005 I have replaced tb 2 times main computer 2 times front fuse panel control box for fuse panel when computer and tb replaced will run fine for two to three weeks and then problem comes back lightning bolt bas light and codes p2101 p 2110 also replaced battery I have spent slot of money at dealership trying to fix the problems to no luck dodge house stumped they do not know what the problem is I hope someone here does ps also checked all grounds and every wire that I could find and had tb rewired please help bout ready for a bullet
 
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