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ESP/BAS ETC Light

Sorry for the long post but I though it might spark some Ideas to get this problem we are all having resolved.

I'm having the same flipping problem as Raw2005, I bought my car from a Chevy Dealer in May 2011 it had 75k on it , in the first week I took it in for this issue and my sales guy took it to the service shop and 10 minutes later drove my car out and said problem solved, he informed me that the mechanic had to calibrate something he did not give me much detail on it. It drove fine all the way to September, until I drove through a 3 mile construction zone on a rainy day and my car was drenched in mud everywhere even under the car, a week later is when this problem started up again after a few underbody washes. Here is what I have done so far.

Replaced PCV Valve
Replaced MAP Sensor
Replaced PCM
Replaced Throttle Body
Replace Battery
Rotated Tires

None of those seemed to help the situation it will drive fine for a day and a half and start tripping out again. But I do no this fore sure its not the PCM connection I thought it was that too but the dealership machine told me that it is sensitive to the touch. I was planning on changing the gas peddle but I saw that didn't help Raw2005.

Here is my thought on this whole situation I have two theories,

1st is after all the changes that where made I never had my codes cleared with a scanner or computer, I herd if they are still stored in the system it can still cause the problem.

2nd this is the theory I'm leaning on more I believe it has something to do with the speed sensors, either the ABS speed sensors or the input and output speed sensors on the transmission, I believe this is the issue because when Im driving and I hit the brake and I start to feel the transmission down shift thats when my car starts to go limp or when I stop and start to take off there will be a delay and it will go limp, so I started to put the car in neutral before braking and it seem to help a lot.

I will update everyone if I have a break through.
 

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hey all, I give much thanks to RAW2005 for starting this thread. I started having this same problem (2005C) about 3 weeks ago just after the new year. Sounds like a repeat performance of the rest of you. I replaced TB and MAP sensor and gotten the computer flashed and the TB tuned. all for not. I was starting to get excited that RAW2005 with the PCM connections. would also make sense to explain why it would always work great for a day or so until the connections loosed back out. ugh. One would think as common as this problem is that Chrysler would have a fix for it by now. imho this seems to borderline on recall.
 

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well it didn't work for RAW2005. I am going to have my PCM replaced tomorrow and will let you guys know if it fixes it. I went to LXforums and coupld guys say it fixed theirs. i guess get a new PCM and not a refurbished one the problem seems to be a bad pin. here is the link i saw:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/f61/pcm-repair-replace-upgrade-221677/

idk. its all i got right now. if the pcm doesn't fix it....idk. i might have to call the vehicle in "stolen" to the police. lol
 

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Yep. Orgional factory computer (about 600) and a new Throttle body and car has been running tip-top for a little over 3 weeks now.
 

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I am ready to shoot this &^%$ car in the grille. I am apparently back to square one as it is doing the same thing again. I must be on to something with the computer and/or connections though as it worked fine for 4 days after I disconnected and reconnected those. Either that or I bumped another wire somewhere else that is the real problem. (Just can't see it) If I didn't still owe money on this car, I'm pretty sure I would have driven it off a cliff by now.

If anyone has any ideas, I am absolutely all ears. :kap:

I am having the same problem with my 300, i just came across your post and have been taking notes lol because I was told it was my PCM, but was trying to do research before i go waste all that money.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I am having the same problem with my 300, i just came across your post and have been taking notes lol because I was told it was my PCM, but was trying to do research before i go waste all that money.
Wow... this thread took on a life of its own (been going a while). Just to confirm... yes, replacing the PCM did resolve my problem. I would recommend staying away from 3rd party sites selling these as I didn't have much luck with them and others have been completely ripped off by them. As much as I hate to say it, go to the dealer for the PCM. It may cost a bit more but you will get a working PCM. :smileup:

Of course, please be sure you have run down any codes your car generated. Just throwing new parts at a problem can get very expensive (believe me I know) and you still might not solve the actual problem. It is important to try to discern what is symptomatic and what is causal. One analogy might be replacing a bulb that keeps blowing but not realizing there is a short in a wire causing it (treating symptom but not the cause).

I will say that, over the course of working on my issue, I found out there were many issues with the PCM in this car. Not sure if it's a quality control thing or just poor quality parts but it's completely possible your PCM might need to be replaced.

Just remember... most things are fixable. It's a battle between you and your patience and the actual issue you are trying to find.
 

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I have the same issue and it DIDN'T resolve my problem (replacement PCM). Starting to regret my purchase... at least we have another car that runs like it's supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
I have the same issue and it DIDN'T resolve my problem (replacement PCM). Starting to regret my purchase... at least we have another car that runs like it's supposed to.
Did you get the codes that were generated? Your issue may not be directly attributable to the PCM. There seem to be a number of little issues with the 2005 300C and I feel like I have run into most of them. My car has been stalling and idling rough most of the summer. Codes indicated a vacuum leak but I checked a couple of times and couldn't find anything obvious that was causing it. I finally took some time a couple of weeks ago and really started looking. I found out I had an intake manifold leak that was causing the issue. When it's cool or cold outside, it runs fine. I am planning to pull my intake manifold this weekend to replace the gaskets which should resolve the issue. From what I have heard and read, manifold leaks are not uncommon on this car so it's always good to check for them.

Anyway... if you're still having the problem... post back with your codes. Maybe we can narrow it down a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Sorry I didn't read the whole thread. So the problem is the connectors coming out of the PCM? Is there any way to throw a zip tie around the harness and the PCM to make sure that it stays in place?
Just in case you're still monitoring this thread, the PCM connectors were not the problem in my case. I did, however, end up securing them anyway as one of the clips had broken. What I finally used was a 2 x 32 inch Velcro strip that I purchased at Harbor Freight Tools (Item #66125 on Harbor Freight's website). It worked perfectly and looked good too. I simply removed the bracket that mounts the PCM to the car and then aligned the strap so it centered across all the connectors. I then reconnected the bracket to the PCM (make hole in strap and run bolt through). The Chrysler mechanic even commented on how well it fit and looked.

A link to the part on their site is included below (if they allow links here).

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-32-inch-hook-and-loop-strap-66125.html
 

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If I'm posting this in the wrong area, my apologies. I have an issue with my car that is really driving me crazy. My ETC light (Red lightning bolt) and ESP/BAS light are coming on constantly. Codes have been 2101, 2118, 2110. I have taken it to two dealerships with no success. I am out of warranty (2005 300c) so everything is on my dime. The second dealership I took it to put some serious time into trying to isolate the issue. (Throttle body checks, computer reset, check for new flashes, etc.) When I left that dealership, it ran ok for about a day and a half then started up again. Sometimes I can shut it off and restart and it will run fine for a short while or, sometimes, go a few feet and freak out again.

Things I have tried:
Replaced old TB sensor plug (TB plug repair kit)
Installed new Throttle Body
Installed new MAP sensor.
Had load test performed on battery - checked out ok.
Dealership reset computer - Tech downloaded original factory specs to the PCM.

It has reached a point where I can't drive the car (borrowing a car now to get back and forth).

The only two things left I can think of is the accelerator pedal and the computer. Neither is cheap but the pedal would be the cheapest of the two. The dealership couldn't say for sure that the computer was the problem so I'm hesitant to shell out $500+ for a new PCM. Everything I have read so far makes me think it could be a wire somewhere so I don't want to buy a new PCM until I can find a way to rule that out.

Any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. I love my 300c and want to get back behind her wheel. :(
Try the egr valve it helped me but i still get the etc light but it doesnt stall anymore
 

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Did you get the codes that were generated? Your issue may not be directly attributable to the PCM. There seem to be a number of little issues with the 2005 300C and I feel like I have run into most of them. My car has been stalling and idling rough most of the summer. Codes indicated a vacuum leak but I checked a couple of times and couldn't find anything obvious that was causing it. I finally took some time a couple of weeks ago and really started looking. I found out I had an intake manifold leak that was causing the issue. When it's cool or cold outside, it runs fine. I am planning to pull my intake manifold this weekend to replace the gaskets which should resolve the issue. From what I have heard and read, manifold leaks are not uncommon on this car so it's always good to check for them.

Anyway... if you're still having the problem... post back with your codes. Maybe we can narrow it down a bit.
I forgot to update this thread. The problem is solved. The TB needed replaced. :smiley_thumbs_up: It's been driving perfect for a while now. No stalls, no codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Try the egr valve it helped me but i still get the etc light but it doesnt stall anymore
Thanks Loud... if you read further through this thread, you will see I had already installed a new EGR valve. The issue was resolved with a new PCM.

Thanks for posting though as that is what keeps these forums strong... everyone pitching in with ideas and suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I forgot to update this thread. The problem is solved. The TB needed replaced. :smiley_thumbs_up: It's been driving perfect for a while now. No stalls, no codes.
Very good to hear your problem was resolved. The throttle body is one of the easier parts to replace on this car and, relatively speaking, is not too expensive (around $200).
 

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Wow... this thread took on a life of its own (been going a while). Just to confirm... yes, replacing the PCM did resolve my problem. I would recommend staying away from 3rd party sites selling these as I didn't have much luck with them and others have been completely ripped off by them. As much as I hate to say it, go to the dealer for the PCM. It may cost a bit more but you will get a working PCM. :smileup:

Of course, please be sure you have run down any codes your car generated. Just throwing new parts at a problem can get very expensive (believe me I know) and you still might not solve the actual problem. It is important to try to discern what is symptomatic and what is causal. One analogy might be replacing a bulb that keeps blowing but not realizing there is a short in a wire causing it (treating symptom but not the cause).

I will say that, over the course of working on my issue, I found out there were many issues with the PCM in this car. Not sure if it's a quality control thing or just poor quality parts but it's completely possible your PCM might need to be replaced.

Just remember... most things are fixable. It's a battle between you and your patience and the actual issue you are trying to find.
Hi Raw.... I have read your posts from the beginning, Im glad you were able to narrow it down. Im not sure If it would apply to me or not because I have a Challenger. I haven't been able to find much on the Challenger sites and i'm hoping that our PCM's are the same. I have a 09 Challenger with a supercharger and a oil catch can. When I get on my car hard I'll get a red lightning bolt (ETC) Light, My ESP light will illuminate and my car will go into Limp mode. I pull a (Sudden high airflow detected) p2172.

I read a couple of threads that point to the oil catch can and or the lines associated with them. I got some 1/2 inch rubber hose and bypassed the oil catch can and took the car out for a test run and had the same results (ETC) light. I cleaned my TB and still no help. I am concerned that I have an issue with my PCM. In addition to this problem and i'm not sure if it is related but i've had an ongoing issue with my key fob (key not detected) and sometimes my radio will reboot on its own. Both of the problems were "FIXED" by the dealership. I think they have no clue how to troubleshoot a vehicle so they just shotgun parts until its fixed. This was fine with me while I was still under warranty but now i'm out of my warranty and would like to make certain that it is the PCM. How did the dealership narrow it to the PCM? Did they just change it and hope it fixed the problem? Any additional information that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I hope your still on this board.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Hi Raw.... I have read your posts from the beginning, Im glad you were able to narrow it down. Im not sure If it would apply to me or not because I have a Challenger. I haven't been able to find much on the Challenger sites and i'm hoping that our PCM's are the same. I have a 09 Challenger with a supercharger and a oil catch can. When I get on my car hard I'll get a red lightning bolt (ETC) Light, My ESP light will illuminate and my car will go into Limp mode. I pull a (Sudden high airflow detected) p2172.

I read a couple of threads that point to the oil catch can and or the lines associated with them. I got some 1/2 inch rubber hose and bypassed the oil catch can and took the car out for a test run and had the same results (ETC) light. I cleaned my TB and still no help. I am concerned that I have an issue with my PCM. In addition to this problem and i'm not sure if it is related but i've had an ongoing issue with my key fob (key not detected) and sometimes my radio will reboot on its own. Both of the problems were "FIXED" by the dealership. I think they have no clue how to troubleshoot a vehicle so they just shotgun parts until its fixed. This was fine with me while I was still under warranty but now i'm out of my warranty and would like to make certain that it is the PCM. How did the dealership narrow it to the PCM? Did they just change it and hope it fixed the problem? Any additional information that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I hope your still on this board.
Everything I have read connected with P2172 strongly points to a vacuum leak. I just went through this a week or so ago with my car (p2173). My intake manifold was leaking so I pulled it and replaced the gaskets. My 300c has been running great ever since. You might try using something to spray around the base of your manifold and around the other vacuum related areas to see if you have a leak. You will do this while it is idling and listen for a change in idle while you are spraying. When you hit the area with the leak, the engine will stumble (may even die). Although I think they recommend using water or propane gas, I used a can of carb cleaner which worked fine (Gumout). As soon as I sprayed a bit by the base of my manifold, my engine almost died. You don't need to use a lot... just spray a bit around each area and listen for changes. I would also check the MAP sensor to be sure it is seated correctly and the plug is not loose.

There are some definite issues with leaks on the plastic manifolds after you pile up a few miles. How many miles are on your car?
 

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Hi RAW2005:

I hope your 300 is running smoothly.

Im new to 300 and now I have the same problem.

Last time I went to the dealershop and they replaced one sensor, I dun quite remember, it has something to do with "Angle".

After that my 300 was running fine about a week. The ESP and BAS light suddenly illuminated yesterday when I was on my way home.

I tried to reset the instrument (turn left to right lock to lock), the light went off for a while but after about 3KM ride, they illuminated again.

I also tried the "key dance", no error code was returned, simply displayed "done".

Can you help me out of this? Thank you in advance.
 

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Hi everyone.... Looks like I am just another in a long line here with a similar problem...

It all started when I sprayed my engine off... My car then shut down and would not start... I figured ok I got a little water somewhere and it will just dry out... well finely was able to get it home (died a couple of times when I would have to slow down)... then it wouldn't start at all.... read codes and cleaned plugs (haven't changed them yet)... had the little lightening bolt on so ended up replacing the TB...

Did absolutely no good... cleared codes.... did key dance and no codes appear... did reset of esp (wheel lft/right etc)... still nothing...

I can get the car to start up now though sometimes it takes a bit, it then idles very ruff... so I let it set for a spell and it seems to settle down a bit... When I go to put it into gear it dies then it is hard to get it started again...

I have checked all connectors sprayed them all with crc to make sure they are clean and dry, replaced TB, and cleaned plugs (am going to change them out today)... I have absolutely no clue what is going on with this thing, I am sooooo frustrated right now (with only 92k it should not be falling apart already)... I don't have the $$$ to just keep buying random parts and hoping that I run across the right one....

Any suggestions would be very very much appreciated....
 
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