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I have a 2006 300 3.5L V6 So I had my timing belt and spark plugs changed as I was nearing 100k miles. All was fine no dash lights no codes prior to doing this. Now I get the engine light p0300 for misfire and occasionally while driving get (ETC) Light red bolt flashing, My ESP will turn off and display on the dash solid throwing the code p2173 for Vacuum Leak checked all the lines and nothing. I can feel the Idle shoot and stay steady at 1000 RPM it will really push hard sometimes at red light have to apply brakes or I'll hit the car in front of me. At other times like today I was on the bay bridge and couldn't push it past 3000rpms at a speed of 50 mph it was just idling there. I really am baffled as to what this could be. Anyone have any clue or idea as to what. As mentioned no issues prior to changing timing belt and plugs. :( And not to mention its intermittent I can pull the fuse of the PCM and be fine for a few days, but then the problem will return. Also cutting engine off and firing it back up will resolve the problem for some time till it repeats.
 

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I have a 2006 300 3.5L V6 So I had my timing belt and spark plugs changed as I was nearing 100k miles. All was fine no dash lights no codes prior to doing this. Now I get the engine light p0300 for misfire and occasionally while driving get (ETC) Light red bolt flashing, My ESP will turn off and display on the dash solid throwing the code p2173 for Vacuum Leak checked all the lines and nothing. I can feel the Idle shoot and stay steady at 1000 RPM it will really push hard sometimes at red light have to apply brakes or I'll hit the car in front of me. At other times like today I was on the bay bridge and couldn't push it past 3000rpms at a speed of 50 mph it was just idling there. I really am baffled as to what this could be. Anyone have any clue or idea as to what. As mentioned no issues prior to changing timing belt and plugs. :( And not to mention its intermittent I can pull the fuse of the PCM and be fine for a few days, but then the problem will return. Also cutting engine off and firing it back up will resolve the problem for some time till it repeats.
My 300 was doing the same thing and started when I changed the plugs back in Sept of last year. Started doing it once in a while and became more often as time went on. Only thing I could think of causing it was that it started doing it after I changed the plugs. I did take it to a dealer while the light was on and was told it showed a vacuum leak and I should start with replacing the PCV valve. This got me to thinking that it all started when I changed the plugs and had to remove the intake manifold to get to them, I didn't change the gasket when I did the job so I figured I'd change the PCV and put in a new gasket to see if that would cure the problem since it was so cheap to do. 10 bucks for the valve and another 10 for the gasket with about 2 hours of labor to change them out. I have put about 2,000 miles on it since I changed them and the car hasn't done it again so I'm thinkin' it's fixed. By the way mine is a 3.5 also, most posters in this thread seem to have the Hemi with the same problem.
 

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So I took it upon myself to open up what the shop had done for me. I unfortunately received the cheap champion plugs which were all burned up. Hence the p0300 misfire code. So I put in NKG plugs and voila that annoying p0300 went away. I also discovered the EGR valve gasket that lil round piece of rubber well it was ripped so I replaced that. Then I was good for 2 days after that then bam. I just made it through the toll plaza at the Bay Bridge of San Fran. I lose my acceleration ability just as I get ready to launch from the signal. So I pull to the right get towed all that fun stuff to find out that the other code which I had for so many months was the darn Throttle body which the shop never even bothered to check or tell me about. So I replaced that sucker and now I am good to go. Hope this helps someone out there.
 

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Hi everyone.... Looks like I am just another in a long line here with a similar problem...

It all started when I sprayed my engine off... My car then shut down and would not start... I figured ok I got a little water somewhere and it will just dry out... well finely was able to get it home (died a couple of times when I would have to slow down)... then it wouldn't start at all.... read codes and cleaned plugs (haven't changed them yet)... had the little lightening bolt on so ended up replacing the TB...

Did absolutely no good... cleared codes.... did key dance and no codes appear... did reset of esp (wheel lft/right etc)... still nothing...

I can get the car to start up now though sometimes it takes a bit, it then idles very ruff... so I let it set for a spell and it seems to settle down a bit... When I go to put it into gear it dies then it is hard to get it started again...

I have checked all connectors sprayed them all with crc to make sure they are clean and dry, replaced TB, and cleaned plugs (am going to change them out today)... I have absolutely no clue what is going on with this thing, I am sooooo frustrated right now (with only 92k it should not be falling apart already)... I don't have the $$$ to just keep buying random parts and hoping that I run across the right one....

Any suggestions would be very very much appreciated....

Did you ever solve the problem? This just started for me at around 99,000 miles and it's driving me insane. Sometimes the car runs perfectly, other times I have to pull over 5 times to turn it off and restart...
 

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I have been dealing with the etc,esp and bas lights coming on in my 05 300 3.5 since October 2018 along with the rough idling. It has been in a couple of shops including dealership with no luck fixing. First they put a new etc on it, than a pcm, than another pcm and a new pcm connector with no luck. Each shop had the vehicle for about a month trying to fix. I parked and cover the car until last week when I start checking it out myself. Long story short, the problem is fixed after installing the third pcm. Being that all the previous pcm's, including the original one had the same problem (etc,esp and bas lights on) made me a little reluctant to try another, but I did. This is my theory. The mechanics weren't disconnecting the battery which is located in the trunk while changing out the pcm. Instead they disconnected positive under the hood,because of convenience, which does not disconnect all power on vehicle thus blowing pcm. I think my original problem started with me unplugging a sensor doing the same thing. My 300 has 161k miles on it and running like it's new now. I got the last pcm for $169 from a place in Cincinnati.
 

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Nice story, just going to trow here an idea, when you had your PCM all press back and tight with zip ties, and it ran fin for a few day. And also the fact that you would avoid the problem with heating the car and restarting it. It might be possible that the PCM had a micro fracture in the main board. Very hard to find these problem has it depends on the temperature.
 
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