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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So this has been my project for a few weeks now, and it's coming to a close. The only bulbs this doesn't cover are as follows:
  • rear view mirror
  • amber indicator bulbs on climate control (ac, defrost, recirculate)
  • amber indicator bulb on seat heater
  • homelink
This isn't to say I won't be continuing to finish the project, some components just weren't priority to me. Feel free to add to this, and if someone else picks up where I leave off then I will edit the first posts so that it can be presented in it's entirety. First let's start with the bulb list:

  • window switch modules QTY: 9, Size: T1
  • mirror control module QTY: 1, Size: PLCC-2
  • steering wheel controls QTY: 4, Size: PLCC-2
  • seat heaters QTY: 2, Size: T1 1/4 (I advise a T1 3/4 if you are replacing with LEDs)
  • climate control module QTY: 5, Size: T1 3/4
  • single disc radio QTY: 10, Size: T1
  • esp button: QTY: 1, Size: PLCC-2
  • hazard button: QTY: 1, Size: T1 1/4
  • clock QTY: 1 (2 is optional), Size: T1 3/4
  • shift selector: QTY: 1, Size: #74 (note, the shifter gets it color from a blue backing on the bezel, this will drastically change the color you hope to get)
T1 = 3mm
T1 1/4 = 4mm
T1 3/4 = 5mm

Helpful Resources:

How to solder
LED Resistor Calculator
Where to get clock/shifter bulbs (Shifter again is #74, the clock uses the Type C Neo Wedge base)
Where to get LEDs

Ohms Law Translated:
(Source Voltage - Forward Voltage) / Forward Current = Ohms rating of the resistor you need
(Source Voltage - Forward Voltage) * Forward Current = Watts rating of resistor

---------------------------------------------------------------​

Steering Wheel Controls:
A special thanks goes out to liljoejoe54 who actually sent me pics and directions on how to do this to help me finish this project faster, check out his tutorial on the charger side here.

Tools Required:
  • 10mm socket wrench
  • Small jewelers flat tip screw driver
  • Soldering iron
1. Loosen the 10mm bolts that secure the airbag unit to the steering wheel.
2. Move airbag unit aside (it should have enough slack to sit on top of the center portion of the steering wheel on its backside).
3. Insert screw driver in the top middle portion above the controls and its surround and pop them out.
4. Unplug the steering wheel controls
5. Use either screw driver or brute force to separate the controls into 2 pieces; the front cover and the circuit board/back cover.
6. Make note of the polarity of the LEDs, and one at a time hold your soldering iron on a contact and apply very little force to separate LED from circuit board.
7. Bend the LED back down and repeat the same for the other side of the LED (bending the LED back down before desoldering side two will prevent the contacts on the PLCC from possibly snapping off in case you want to reuse the LED or change your mind)
8. Tin the two contacts where the LED was mounted, you shouldn't need a mound higher then 1mm
9. Using either a rubber band, small alligator clips, or cat like reflexes, secure the new LED to the new points, and solder one side at a time keeping the polarity correct. For this component, both LEDs are oriented in the same direction so you can use the notch in the corner of the LED to ensure proper polarity.
10. Repeat for the second LED, followed by the other steering wheel control.

Check your work



-----Step 1-------------Step 2-------------Step 3------------Step 4-----Soldering Instructions------Done----------Done Night

Shift Light:
Tools Required:
  • Philip's head screwdriver
1. Unscrew shift knob by turning it counter clockwise.
2. Remove tray that sits between shift bezel and ashtray/seat heating controls.
3. Remove screws that secure shift bezel, and remove the entire shift bezel unit by applying a bit of force to pop the piece from the slots it's latched to.
4. Remove black shift cover by bending the 4 latches outwards, one at a time.
5. Unscrew #74 bulb and replace.
6. On the underside of the black shift cover, you'll notice there is some blue tint on the bottom of the numbers. you can tape theater lighting gel over these to alter the color, but keep in mind the final output is going to be aqua + bulb color + gel color



Pic 1: Two screws hold the shifter surround in
Pic 2: 4 latches hold the shift cover on
Pic 3: The bulb simply unscrews, its a tight fit for fingers

Seat Heaters
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screw driver
  • Soldering iron
1. Remove radio bezel by opening the ash tray and getting a firm grip of the edge of the bottom of the bezel. Pull outward and work your way to the top until all the clips have been released.
2. Disconnect the controls for the climate control, there are two plugs. Move the radio bezel out of the way by simply putting it on the dash.
3. Set aside the removable tray that is between the shift bezel and the ash tray door. Pull on the top of the ash tray unit until it unlatches. You may need to angle it to get the bottom to clear the radio bezel if you choose not to remove it (see shift light tutorial above)
4. Disconnect both seat heaters by depressing the plug and pulling. Disconnect the accessory outlet as well by inserting the jewelers screwdriver into the notch on the backside to depress the tab, then simply pull it out.
5. There are two latches that hold each seat heater control in place on top and bottom. Depress these and push the back of the controls.
6. The seat heater control will come out the front of the bezel.
7. There are two locking tabs that hold the back cover onto the front cover, use your jewelers screw driver to separate the halves.
8. Remove circuit board and set aside.
9. Desolder existing bulb, if you plan to replace with another incandescent, you will need to remove the existing bulb and replace with the new bulb. While simply soldering the new bulb onto the contacts will work, the bulb will not be secured to the actual board (See drawings to see how the base and bulb are put together)
10. Solder the cathode to the negative contact, and solder the anode to a resistor, which is soldered to the positive contact. I find that a 5mm LED works best instead of the T1 1/4 bulb currently used. Also keep in mind, the resistor is going to need to be positioned above the two contacts for the switch. Both of my switches involve some tight fitment as I didn't want to get smaller resistors because I had those on hand. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get to this point. Prepare to be doing some extremely tight fit soldering, the cathode and anode in both of my switches are about .5mm apart (I wrapped the entire anode side in heat shrink tubing to prevent arcing which I find unlikely will happen, but better to be safe).
11. Reassemble unit and test it out.


---Step 1--------Step 2------------Step 3-----------Step 4--------------Steps 5-8------------Closeup

The first 3 pictures show how to get the LCD secure and soldered. Also, pic 3 shows the polarity for the top heat level indicator lights. You could solder PLCC-2 LCDs here facing the same direction. Keep in mind you have 2v to work with and space for resistors is pretty slim, even SMD resistors. The 4th picture shows how the existing bulb is put in place.

A: shows the circuit board from the top. Notice the hole, the bulb goes through the hole and actually gets soldered on the top of the wings on the base.
B: show the base of the bulb from the top. The bulb sits in the center pocket, the wires go through the knotches and extend to the outside of the wings and curl up.
C: shows what the bulb will look like properly based. Notice the gray wires and how they go around to the outside.
D: reminds you how the bulb goes through the hole, and the wires on the top of the wings gets soldered down. I did mine backwards the first time and looked like a jackass.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Climate Control
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • 1/8" wrench, socket, or needle-nose pliers


Pic 1: Knobs need to be in this position
Pic 2: Latch location (ignore the knob settings)
Pic 3: Back of climate control (you won't be tinkering on this side)
Pic 4: Front of climate, hard to see but the bulbs actually have bubbles above them so the side of the light shines into the plastic. The plastic has notches at the 4 knob locations which is how the light shines through. This could pose a problem for LEDs that don't reach the proper height or shine in a wide enough angle. LED halos work using the same principle of shining light at the ends of plastic, which is why the LED halos are knotched.
Pic 5: Shows the plastic mentioned above in better detail
Pic 6: Bulb locations
Pic 7: Closeup of bulbs soldered on (this was after all are complete)



A: This is a top view of the base. You'll thread the wires through the two holes, the bulb sits in there (if you ordered type B it'll have a gap, however when you solder it, it'll be secure). The notches on the side are oversized so you notice them in the drawing. The excess wire gets routed up the sides and you can clip any that pokes above.

B: Shows how the bulb assembly should look when completed. Wires aren't shown (see picture bellow)



The picture above shows how the bulb needs to be setup before you solder it. It makes it easier as the bumps can get flattened and you'll have a tight fit with the base on the board.

Single Disc Radio
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • T10 Torx bit driver
Hazards Button
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • 1/8" wrench, socket, or needle-nose pliers


ESP Button
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • 1/8" wrench, socket, or needle-nose pliers
Clock
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Headlight Control
Tools Required:
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • T10 Torx bit driver


Window Switches (Rear) While the existing LED is a T1, I managed to fit a T1 3/4 with no clearance issues (I did so because I was out of T1 bulbs)
Tools Required:
  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
1. Remove door panels and disconnect wiring leading to switches.
2. Depress the hooks that hold the entire switch bezel onto the door.
3. Insert jewelers screw driver into slots to release the window switch module.
4. Insert the jewelers screw driver into slots to release hooks which hold the window switch pieces together.
5. Note the LED and resistor, if your LED draws more power or current then the rated resistor then you will need to swap both resistor and LED.
6. If needed, remove old resistor and replace with new correctly rated resistor.
7. Turn switch over and remove bottom cover plate by depressing end of cover and lifting.
8. Desolder the leads for the LEDs, and make a note of the polarity.
9. Use desolder braid to remove all solder from contacts.
10. Insert new LED's leads through the old LEDs holes, and solder in place.
11. Trim leads to fit under bottom cover.
12. Reassemble and test.


----Step 3------------Step 4--------Step 5-----------Step 6-------Step 7---------Step 10

Window Switches (Front)
Tools Required:
  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron


 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Mirror Control
Tools Required:
  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • Small jewelers flat tip screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
1. With door panel removed, depress the metallic retainers on the side of the mirror control, and apply pressure on the round end on the bottom of the control to pop the control out of the bezel.
2. Twist the mirror control unit to remove the unit completely from the bezel.
3. Separate the yellow and black portions of the mirror control by using your screw driver to depress the latches holding the halves together. Set the black top part aside.
4. Insert your screw driver between the circuit board and the yellow bottom of the control and carefully use a wedging motion to separate the two. You're going to feel like you're bound to break something, this may be the case but I got lucky once to do the mod, and twice to go back and take pictures.
5. Set aside the circuit board the the joystick guide. The white portion of the actual guide just rests in the black portion, if you sepparate these two, make sure you don't put the white part in upside down. Set aside everything but the yellow piece.
6. Desolder the SMT LED, making note of polarity (the notch on the LED) and solder your new LED on using the methods described in earlier components.
7. Test the control before you reassemble.


-----Step 1-----------Step 2a------------Step 2b----------Step 2c

-----Step 3a-----------Step 3b------------Step 4----------Step 5-------------Step 6

Rear view Mirror (Without U-Connect)

Homelink

Gauge Cluster
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Reserved for part 5

Please refrain from posting as I'm migrating the old bulb swap writeup to here, and it may require additional replies as there is going to be a LOT of pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got my new LEDs today, they don't suffer the same hot spot problem that my 3mm and 5mm do, so I'm swapping EVERYTHING again (well smt LEDs can stay). They also aren't as insanely bright as before, they do a little better blending in. My old ones dimmed, but even on the dim setting they looked like high beams. I got some more pics coming and I can actually update now that the posting dilemma has been debugged.
 

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Damn TK . This should be made a sticky as it will serve as a great tool to service dead lights in the future . Outstanding write -up . Looks great too ..
 

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I guess you can do large posts again...lol
Man this is a great writeup and definitely needs a sticky/knowledge base
BEANS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There's already one in the KB from me, I just started to rewrite it and put it in a more organized fashion
 

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I'll make this thread a sticky for you in this section TK. :smiley_thumbs_up:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Phil, anyway we can remove the one from the knowledge base as this one includes all of the old writeup, as well as additional crap. Once I finish I got no problem it being moved to the KB I just wanna get it completed before we bless off on it as complete.
 

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Sure you let me know when this one is finished, and I can move it. You'll have to get a SuperMod, or Admin to remove the one from the KB though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No prob, I'm actually gonna kill the links to the pics in the z gallery and link everything to my picasa so I don't have to edit separate writeups across a few forums. It's almost like my work is never done...
 

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One of the better write-ups i have seen, GREAT JOB!!!
Would one of those procedures be required to fix this?



Notice the lightening is out on the right side of the air directional control.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
One of the better write-ups i have seen, GREAT JOB!!!
Would one of those procedures be required to fix this?



Notice the lightening is out on the right side of the air directional control.
Yeah it's just a matter of soldering on a new bulb and reuse the blue bulb cover that is on the existing bulb.

TK, Have you figured out how to do Blue LED's for everything including the instrument cluster?
I wasn't ever planning on using blue LEDs in my interior, but it's a matter of using appropriate resistors and such. Liljoejoe on LXF/CFZ has been working the blue angle. The problem child right now is the radio, because I'm getting crazy hotspots so I may have to scrap the existing bulb mount points and create something of my own. PM me if you need help with doing this on your own, and from there I'll send you some links to what you'll need and give you my # so if you find your car is on fire because of something I said was safe to do, you can tell me to edit the post (and possibly call 911).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
what about the dashboard lights? how would change those?
Well I haven't taken apart the gauge cluster, however others have and its now common knowledge its backlit by electroluminescent film. I've been pretty bogged down with family **** so its hard to work on the car (currently there is no clock or radio face in my car going on 2 weeks). So the hard solution is to swap the EL sheet from the aqua that's in there now, to a white sheet. Once you have white backlight, you have the whole color spectrum at your disposal. Option two is to just use a theater gel or something similar, and hoping for a good color match. As far as the actual warning and hazard lights, I would imagine they are SMT LEDs, and one could swap as they feel fit. One word of warning, red tends to mean fix now, amber means get it checked, and green is function lights. So if you were to say swap all your lights to one color, when you resell the car this might be a huge PITA when buyer is test driving your car and a purple CEL light comes on and no one knows wtf it means.
 

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Can you please provide a bulb recommendation for the shifter bulb? You said twist-in but most 74's I can find are push-in. That and the HVAC are the last two things I have left to do. Your write-ups are lifesavers!
 
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