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Thanks for the info!
if i can add my .02 cents.. if your highly considering the oem kickersubwoofer and box, the box is cool because it fits in the nook in the rear wheel well out of the way. HOWEVER the amp and sub that come with this setup are very weak, its the biggest waste of $500 bucks, I am not kidding that when i installed it i did not even know there was a sub in the trunk, the midbass in the doors seem to have put out the same noticeable thump. I would say like john said above if a sub is in your future get a LOC an aftermarket amp sub and box, all this could easily be had for around $500. The only thing i say not because i am a bass junkie but if you want a little bit of noticeable thump add an amp the put 500+ watts out anything less it will give you the same results as the oem kicker subwoofer setup.
 

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Interesting I have heard about those little boxes that tie into your rear speakers creating RCA's for an amp and woofer. From others experiance is bass control decent with using the stock REC head unit and amp? Is it worth still upgrading to say the best BA amp for the 6 speakers minus the sub and then maybe upgrading the speakers as well? Is having the third speaker in the middle of the dash perferred? I would like a little better sound but not looking to spend a ton since I am already having to replace my REC unit due to a failed changer.
 

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I agree with Todd. The Kicker amp is the weak link. You could upgrade the amp and use the spkr. I suggest you find an amp with a sub gain control and install a remote gain control knob (easy to do - it's plug and play) so you can tweak a bit on the sub presence in the cabin.

I didn't spend that much on speakers. I think the four 6X9's cost me all of $200 and the fronts only cost me $40 (local audio store was having a clearance sale) and a good 4 channel amp for the main audio isn't very expensive either. Todd has a nice one for sale, by the way. And, you can use your stock amp to drive the dash speakers, install the PacAudio piece to send the pre-amp signal to the new 4 channel amp, run the signal outs from that amp to your new door and rear deck spkrs.

I'm gonna upgrade my stock amp to the SRT upgraded amp and try that, then if that don't do it, try the Kicker upgraded amp and see what happens from there.
 

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also, remember that it seems that the kicker sub is wired incorrectly from the factory. reverse the polarity of the wires into the sub, and you get more kick in your kicker :smileup:
 

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Good point! I experienced that when I put in the Kicker amp and sub.

But all is not lost. I am gonna use that amp and sub in my truck!

 

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my bass is non existent in my 300. i dont have the sub in the rear but i was shocked to hear how many notes are not there. my magnum with just the plain old single disk set up has a much deeper bass then the 300. by no means am i a bass junkie but with the bass all the way up its just lacking. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I believe wbglider put sub in the rear middle deck and likes them. not sure what size that is though. but bug Todd about installing an amp and sub :)
 

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Has anyone instaled the Mopar Kicker Dorr Speakers? Im thinking about changing the amp to the 77KICK18AB and getting the door speakers also because my door speakers are blown as of this weekend
 

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I have a 2005 300 base model my stock radio works fine im trying to install a double din i have my harness done correctly (to my knowledge) green wire says its (reverse +) but my radio won't power up also I checked and it does not have a factory amp by the column. How can I get my radio going?
 
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