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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bobo said:
I took my 2005 Chrysler 300 AWD to a mechanic because I felt some grabbing as I turned my wheel left or right and was going slow and either backing up or going forward. It has 124,000 miles on it. First I was told the pinion seal was leaking but later was told my rear differential was gone and I would need another one. Does any of this sound logical?
 

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Bobo said:
I took my 2005 Chrysler 300 AWD to a mechanic because I felt some grabbing as I turned my wheel left or right and was going slow and either backing up or going forward. It has 124,000 miles on it. First I was told the pinion seal was leaking but later was told my rear differential was gone and I would need another one. Does any of this sound logical?
You could very well have a leaking seal, but the "grabbing" you're feeling on low speed turns is more likely to be an issue with your Brake Lock Differential system.

Have you checked for DTCs with an advanced scantool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You could very well have a leaking seal, but the "grabbing" you're feeling on low speed turns is more likely to be an issue with your Brake Lock Differential system.

Have you checked for DTCs with an advanced scantool?
Thanks for the help! I think I need a second opinion for sure as the mechanic is going to charge me $1,000 to put in a used rear differential and I'm not sure that the differential is gone as the car drives fine and there is no vibration or noise at all. Not sure what you mean by "checking for DTC's with a scantool"
 

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Thanks for the help! I think I need a second opinion for sure as the mechanic is going to charge me $1,000 to put in a used rear differential and I'm not sure that the differential is gone as the car drives fine and there is no vibration or noise at all. Not sure what you mean by "checking for DTC's with a scantool"
I suspect that your Brake Lock Differential system, which is electronic and computer-controlled, might be causing the problem.

A scantool is any device that can connect to your car's on-board diagnostic port and read any and all diagnostic trouble codes that may be present.

Simple, handheld code readers start around $15, but generally can only read powertrain codes. I'd suggest using a scantool that can read all codes, including pending, network, and chassis codes.

You need the ability to read DTCs to diagnose our cars effectively. If you don't have, and can't get access to a scantool, start with the key dance.
 

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chrysler self diagnostics system turn the key three times to on position(do not start car) and third time leave in on position and dashboard will put up codes if there is any
 
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