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I had this problem in my '05 C almost every time I filled up. I always used to top it off, because that's what I've done with every car I've owned for 38 years.
It would be fine at first, but since I usually filled up after work and only live 1 mile from home, it always waited to stall out on me the next morning going to work.
I finally figured out that this only happened the day after I filled up.
So now when the nozzle does the automatic shut off, I leave it at that, and I haven't had a problem since. It's been over 5 months since it last happened.
So if anybody has this problem, just stop fueling when the nozzle hits the auto shut off point and DO NOT fill it any further, and hopefully that will solve your problem as well.
 

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i have a 05 300c 5.7 liter and i noticed that this morning i filled my gas tank up it started stalling and die'n out several times then all of a sudden it started running fine, then later in the evening i decided to take a drive to see if problem occurs again, guess what no problem so i was like cool it must of been a fluke. so when filling up in the morning then taking my drive in the evening i used a 1/4 of a tank of gas no problems so i get tired of driving pull into the gas station to refill the gas and guess what same problem i dunno its crazy im gonna take to to shop tomorrow cuz its under warranty. i post what my problem was when i find out...
 

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ooops i forgot to mention when i'm filling gas in my car i do not have any probs with the gas stopping on me but i do leave it when pumps stops on its own, i learned my lesson on that with my ford exploder that i use to have...
 

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i did find this info on the problem When you fill the fuel tank the air in the tank has to be displaced by the incoming fuel. This air can't go into the atmosphere, so it leaves the tank and goes through the vapor canister, then through another line and through a filter before it goes into the atmosphere. On top of the fuel tank where this vapor recovery line leaves and goes to the canister there is a valve that is only supposed to allow vapor to leave and should shut off when liquid fuel gets to it. When this valve fails it will allow liquid fuel to be pushed up into the lines and into the vapor canister. When you start the engine the purge solenoid will come on shortly to pull vapors from the canister and burn them. What it gets instead is this liquid fuel that shouldn't be there, so it runs very rich and can die at idle. As the liquid gets burned out it will run better. There are two ways to go about fixing it. The cheapest way would be to not fill the tank completely and this will stop the liquid from pushing into the canister. The only permanent and actual fix is to replace the fuel tank. All fuel tank lines and valving are molded into the fuel tank and only serviced with the tank itself, so the fuel tank has to be replaced to cure this problem.





 

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my brother has a 2007 mazda 3 and told me the same thing and he told me the code #. I looked it up and it ended up being the egr valve. I told him to use seafoam on every other fill up to keep the carbon low in the combustion area and the feedback which is the egr passage ports. I told him to first change the egr valve because it is so difficult to clean the carbon build up out and the do the preventive maintenance... He just used seafoam on every other refill and has no complaints there after. I would first change the old egr valve then use the seafoam. I have an 1994 explorer and an 2001 ford expedition and when the egr gets clogged you will definitely know... They should give you a bottle of seafoam at first fill up. Since you is having this problem with your 300 i will start doing the same with my 2005 chrysler 300c.
 

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Replace Tank and Vapor Cannister

I had the same problem with my '06 300C SRT8 - stalling after filling the tank (but never overfilling). Never had any problems with the pump shutting off prematurely. After being told the stalling couldn't have anything to do with the tank or fuelling and no error codes ever being recorded by the car, the dealership accused me of overfilling the tank (which was not the case). Then the dealership recommened the 30 - 90 second wait before and after filling the tank to let the fuel settle. This didn't solve the issue at all.

As the problem occurred only occasionally it was hard to replicate for the dealer. Chrysler then told the dealership a certified tech needed to witness the problem as my reports or the dealership's service manager's reports who had also witnessed the problem first hand weren't good enough. The tech finally witnessed it with the diagonstics device connected to the car and again no codes.

Eventually, Chrysler agreed to replace first the vapor cannister and when that did not help, the entire fuel tank (for a co-pay each time in addition to dealer diagnostics charges). That solved the issue, but no one was able to explain to me what exactly was causing the problem to begin with.
 

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gas tank problem

Had the same problem for 1 year...filling up the tank and either missing or dying until 1/4 tank was used....Problem was a defective gas tank and evaporator canister...Luckly was still under warranty...wud have cost 3-4000 to repair..Haven't had the problem since..
 

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My 2005 300C started stalling and Tranny slipping, when I fill up gas tank. I have 95,000 miles and owned the car since it was new. It just started doing this. I've read similar posts with the exact same syptoms. I am not filling the tank any differently than I have for the past 6 years. Fill up with any brand of gas (I've always use mid grade), and sometimes it happens, other times it doesn't. No issue with brand of fuel. Stalling multiple times, transmission slipping, until car calms down about one half hour after fill up, then it runs like a charm. Very frustrating.
 

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Did u ever find the problem. I'm having the exact problem and so are many others. Chrysler shops are clueless and expensive....
 

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I haven't had this problem for almost a year now. Just don't top off the gas tank when fueling up. If that doesn't work, it might be more serious and you may need to try one of the other remedies that were stated above.
 

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chysler300C and problems when filling up gas tank

Hi, i have read this forum and numerous other forums on the chrysler 300c stalling out after putting gas in it. Peoples solutions of not topping it off does not help what so ever. My car is a 2005 have have had it for almost 5 years. The first year we did not have a problem with it. I had several people that had my same car ask me if i had the stalling out problems after filling up with gas, i did not at the time. Then after putting gas in it will sputter and stall. this went on and still is at this time. We replaced the cap as someone said might help, no help there. We tried just putting in $5.00 after it got low, no help. Also it is against the law to top off the gas tank in Oregon where i live and watch to make sure they don't do that. Nothing has helped at all. 1 week ago after filling up the car after it sputtered and stalled it ran fine until my husband took it out of town an hour away, it ran fine but on the way back he was driving home and it stalled going down the freeway, he did not put in any more gas after he left town it was at half a tank, he almost lost control of the power steering, had it been me and not very strong it could of been a different story. Chystler does not care and they all act like it is something new. are they waiting for a lot of people to die before they do a recall on it? This is not right, i'm worried to drive it now and certainly do not want to see it to someone else who might harm them selves or someone else. As i said, this is not the only forum with this problem there are many of them with lots of pages that go on and on about this. I/m fed up with car companies who don't care, maybe they would if someone in there family was hurt or worse even killed because of the stalling out problems, i certainly do not want that. I just wish they would do a recall and fix this problem. I give it a
 

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300c stalling after fill up

I just had my fuel tank, evap system and associated parts replaced by Chrysler. Their is a defective valve internally that allows raw fuel to back up into the evap canister. This problem exists on numerous vehicles. Chtysler was willing to split the cost of the repair, without accepting any product design flaw liability. This repair out of pocket was in excess of 1k. I fully intend to pursue Chrysler corporate for reimbursement. This is NOT a maintainence issue but rather a MECHANICAL issue that they need to acknowledge...
 

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OK posting under a different name ..background/ 06 300 C 5.7 hemi....stalling after filling tank.....went to dealer ...NO JOY... THE NEXT EVOLUTION....... car , after 18 monsth finally **** the bed and lit the following dash sensors...esp,bas,abs,eng......and WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF 2ND GEAR !!!
code s thrown were as follows
lft rr whl spd sensor/rght rr wheel spd sensor , trans proformance sensor.....couple of others...anyway.... for the last 12 months had the stalling , periodically after fillip, thought it was the rollover sensor in the fuel tank...NOT !!!!

STARTED DIGGING ....PULLED THE REARS OFF, PULLED THE REAR BRAKES DOWN...63 K MILES...E BRAKE SHOES toast..lining separation .....bearings felt ok , but dealer said the brgs have the reluctor in them...NOT !!!!!!...started pulling the bearings and discovered this plastic /magnetic ring !!! this is/ was the reflector /magnetic part of the abs/speed sensor.....ie the problem !!!! ..the curb side reluctor was in 2 pieces...probably , this was the original problem with the stall after filling up !!!!! the passenger side started the problem..the drivers side finally put the cpu IN TO DIE MODE....THE COMPUTER ON THE 300 C HAS THE ABILITY TO COMPENSATE FOR THINGS ****ING UP AND KEEPING THE CAR ROLLING..
but it doesn't throw a code to say it's in " I'm AFU" mode !!!.....THE SOLUTION !!!!

replace the rear axles..both of them 763.00 from chrysler / parts price...WHILE I was in there , I also threw a set of rear shocks and the E brake shoes, thought about the bearings , but they were ok..jobber cost on the bearings thru napa was $455.00....this was/is a job !! I figure thru a dealer around 2500 to 3500 dollars. and the diagnostic time is figured in !!

SO IF YOU HAVE A GUY YOU KNOW THAT HAS A MODIS , AND CAN DIAG THE CPU AND RESET THE CODES AFTER DOING THE REPLACEMENT S THIS IS THE SOLUTION.

This job is a ROYAL PIA CAUSE YOU HAVE TO DROP THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AND DIFFERENTIAL TO REPLACE BOTH SHAFT'S !!!..ANOTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEM WAS THAT THE DRIVER SIDE REAR RESONATOR WAS FULL OF WATER...THE BUNG HOLE WAS PLUGGED !!!...GOOD THING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS STAINLESS STEEL !!! POKE A HOLE INTO THE BUNG AND LET THE WATER DRAIN OUT..DENTAL PICK , OR TOOTH PICK WILL WORK .!!!YOU DON'T WANT TO PAY FOR A NEW EXHAUST SYSTM !!!!


MY .02 CENTS !!!!....JON RUTKA IN DEERFIELD MASS
 

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I actually have had this problem with mine - most mechanics had no idea, but I finally talked to one that said that the way the fuel tank is set up on mine (2006, V8) it is built so that you can actually overfill the tank and this makes the car choke and die. Literally my car was doing EXACTLY what you said yours is doing, sorry I don't know the technical way to explain all this, but as soon as I stopped filling it as much as it would let me (it was letting me put close to 19 gallons in when on extreme E, now I make sure to put a few less), the problem stopped immediately and I haven't had an issue since.
 

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additional observations after replacing the axles !!! The fuel mileage , highway had gone down to 19-21 mpg ....u get use to it...after the axle job , last week this is what I have also noticed !! the engine management system is again functioning...ie cruising at highway speed it drop's to fewer cylinders,,the gas mpg has gone back up to 23-25 mpg.....the engine tach speed has dropped back to 2000 rpm from 21/2200 at 68 miles per hour....note that I've been running 5w40 mobil 1 , on a change interval of 7500 miles.
 

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This was posted in another thread first - copied here.

Well this just happened to me today! 2006 5.7 122k and never had any problems.

AND! I just topped off the tank. Had a little under 1/2, and the station I always use was out of regular unleaded, and the manager was putting signs on all the pumps that they were selling 93 octain Premium for the regular price! so I filed it up. SO about 50/50 mix, making it a mid-grade.

Got 1 mile down the road and when I went over a small hill the engine just turned off, and the only light on the dash if I remember right was the oil light was on. Didn't think much about that at the time - but shouldn't ALL the idiot lights be on? Is this an indication that it cut off because of a low oil pressure indication?

Well I pulled over (neighborhood road) and turned it off, and it tried to restart but faltered and quit. So I waited about 3 minutes and tried again and it started. I got up to 30 so I could coast it home if it quit again, and it did right as I made the turn into the driveway.

Let it sit for about 45 minutes, it started right up. Ran about 3 minutes then just quit again. Falter on restart, waited 1 minute, then it started but idle speed fluxuated, then went to 1500, then settled down, slowly going to about 600. I wondered if I hit a bump and it quit, or if turning made it quit. So, sitting in the seat, I rocked the car that it immediately quit. However, after restarting again, I could not duplicate that, but it quit again on it's own. :(

Tomorrow I will have the oil pressure displayed as it is running to see if it goes low and makes it quit. Like someone said - bad sensor? Computer? Bad fuel pump?

One thing I did notice that I have not heard this noise before is a ticking noise from the center consol, and wondering if the black box is going bad - would that make the car quit?

Any other ideas?

After reading this thread - I am going to drive it around the neighbothood and burn off some gas and see if that fixes this. Weird - never heard of this happening - I have always filled up and topped it off before. I bought this in 2006! and have been doing it all the time. Sometimes I will pull the nozzel out a little and keep adding, until it is full all the way up the filler tube - been doing it for years! Never knew it could be a problem.
And this time, yes - I added about 1/3 of a gallon ($1.00 at $3.00/gal) this time after it auto shut-off.

So, I gets 12 MPG driving slow around the hood, and I needs to burn off at least 1/3 gallon, so about 4 miles. Sounds like what everyone is doing and then it runs fine.
I'll let you know
 

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This was posted in another thread first - copied here.

Well this just happened to me today! 2006 5.7 122k and never had any problems.

AND! I just topped off the tank. Had a little under 1/2, and the station I always use was out of regular unleaded, and the manager was putting signs on all the pumps that they were selling 93 octain Premium for the regular price! so I filed it up. SO about 50/50 mix, making it a mid-grade.

Got 1 mile down the road and when I went over a small hill the engine just turned off, and the only light on the dash if I remember right was the oil light was on. Didn't think much about that at the time - but shouldn't ALL the idiot lights be on? Is this an indication that it cut off because of a low oil pressure indication?

Well I pulled over (neighborhood road) and turned it off, and it tried to restart but faltered and quit. So I waited about 3 minutes and tried again and it started. I got up to 30 so I could coast it home if it quit again, and it did right as I made the turn into the driveway.

Let it sit for about 45 minutes, it started right up. Ran about 3 minutes then just quit again. Falter on restart, waited 1 minute, then it started but idle speed fluxuated, then went to 1500, then settled down, slowly going to about 600. I wondered if I hit a bump and it quit, or if turning made it quit. So, sitting in the seat, I rocked the car that it immediately quit. However, after restarting again, I could not duplicate that, but it quit again on it's own. :(

Tomorrow I will have the oil pressure displayed as it is running to see if it goes low and makes it quit. Like someone said - bad sensor? Computer? Bad fuel pump?

One thing I did notice that I have not heard this noise before is a ticking noise from the center consol, and wondering if the black box is going bad - would that make the car quit?

Any other ideas?

After reading this thread - I am going to drive it around the neighbothood and burn off some gas and see if that fixes this. Weird - never heard of this happening - I have always filled up and topped it off before. I bought this in 2006! and have been doing it all the time. Sometimes I will pull the nozzel out a little and keep adding, until it is full all the way up the filler tube - been doing it for years! Never knew it could be a problem.
And this time, yes - I added about 1/3 of a gallon ($1.00 at $3.00/gal) this time after it auto shut-off.

So, I gets 12 MPG driving slow around the hood, and I needs to burn off at least 1/3 gallon, so about 4 miles. Sounds like what everyone is doing and then it runs fine.
I'll let you know
Same EXACT problem here. Did you ever get it fixed??
 
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