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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After realizing a lot of questions come up over the same things regarding How to install Head units, speakers, subwoofers I am going to simplify and try to answer a lot of questions in this post.
To start if you are installing a oem radio to replace your current oem such as raq, rec etc these are plug and play no further wiring is needed for 05-07 300's, chargers, cherokees, maggies, commanders etc. Only thing that might be required is a different radio bezel. As chrysler makes one for the navigation and non navigation. my video tutorial:
http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=58116

In regards to my gig that is considered a retrofit There are a few parts that cost anywhere from $200-400 to make this fit including a lockpick, nav antenna, bezel, sirius antenna etc. This link should help you figure mygig out: http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=58266&highlight=mygig


all necessary harnesses and installation kit for a aftermarket Head Unit (HU)
1. the mounting kit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120996510/Chrysler-Dodge-Jeep-Kit.html or scosche CR1289B (for aftermarket Navi) or scosche CR1286B (non navigation aftermarket HU)
2a. Peripheral's CHYAH05 or Pac Audio C2R-CHY or scosche CR03SR (lets you retain factory amp with your new head unit)
2b. Wiring kit (allows you to bypass the factory amp to use the head units power) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120706504/Dodge-Jeep-Chrysler-In-dash-Stereo-Integration-Adapter.html or Pac audio C2R-CHYNA
2c. pac audio C2R-CHY4 (requires factory amplifier) but you wont need the swi-can for steering wheel controls but you may still need pac SWI-X
3. here is the antenna adapter from oem antenna end to the new hu: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040CR10/Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569 or scosche CRAB
4. to retain steering wheel control on your aftermarket head unit you will need PAC SWI-X in conjunction with SWI-Can 2 (only needed if using c2r-chy)
5. If you decide to go with an aftermarket navigation unit and do not have an oem navigation unit you will need a factory chrysler 300 navigation radio bezel. If you go from a navigation unit to a regular Headunit without navigation you will need to get the factory chrysler regular radio bezel. Yes your dealer sells these they come in black, silver, carbon fiber (looks ugly) and a laminate stlye (carbon fiber even uglier). But check the forums people are selling these things all the time. If you cant find them on the forums check ebay, seller LKQonline tends to have a lot and often times gives you an additional clock and sometimes the temperature controls too!



In regards to installing an aftermarket amp its pretty explanatory from these diagrams, this is the easiest way to do it with an aftermarket Head unit. Run your RCA from the pre outs on the back of the Head Unit to the designated amp. From Subwoofer pre outs to subwoofer amp etc. NOTE: not all amps have inputs for multiple power and ground wires. Majority tend to only have 1. Also in the illustration you will notice next to from the HU to the amp there are some wires, the pair on the left is your rca patch cables to the right of that is your remote ignition turn on wire to unsure the amp turns on when the car and radio turn on.

This is an image of a quick understanding of subwoofer install. PLEASE read on you should grasp a better understand of combing a subwoofer amp and box.



Adding a subwoofer to your current setup isnt brain science but planning is def required not all amps subs and boxes pair together. Follow these steps and it will simplify your life.
1. Personally I like to choose my subwoofer first based on reviews, visiting audio shops listening to what I like best and most important selecting a subwoofer that will fit in a box that will fit my needs. Some subwoofers require massive boxes that take up your trunk, others require smaller boxes that can fit in the corner or a small place in a trunk or possibly behind a seat in a single cab pickup. Once I select my woofer then
2. Your prospected subwoofer has some type of ohm configuration most common a single voice coil (SVC) 2 ohm or 4 ohm or dual voice coil 2 ohm or 4 ohm load (DVC). Knowing this is very important when deciding on an amp and woofer. NOT ALL AMPS are compatible with all ohm loads. So you want to choose a subwoofer in conjunction with a suitable amp. A lot of times you can buy the same sub in a 2ohm or 4ohm configuration. Wiring the sub is more than just plugging it in from sub to amp and requires the decision of the ohm load your planning to run which is called series or parallel. When choosing an amp you want the rms and max wattage to be about the same as your subwoofers rms and max wattage. Amps are usually rated somewhere like this but this is an example
RMS ratings:
200 x 1 @ 4ohms
400 x 1 @ 2ohms
600 x 1 @ 1ohm

ideally i would want to maximize my amp so i would want to run it at 1 ohm. so i would look at the the link below to see what woofer configuration i need to get to those specs.
Here is two link to (SVC) wiring configurations and (DVC) configurations.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=145
( i will try to replace the link with actual illustrations later)
after looking at the link you notice that in order to get 1 ohm on the amp you need two (svc) 2 ohm subwoofers wired in parrallel.
If you went with a (DVC) woofer you notice if you bought (1) 2 ohm woofer you could run it in parrallel to achieve the 600x1 @ 1ohm from the amp. This is a simple representation obviously you can add multiple woofers and obtain different ohm loads. BUT REMEMBER NOT ALL AMPS CAN HANDLE ALL OHM LOADS A LOT OF CLASS D (subwoofer amps) are not 1 ohm stable, so be sure to look at all specs of subwoofer and amps, when deciding on the package you want to buy.

Installing an aftermarket amp and subwoofer with a OEM radio/head unit
There are two common ways of doing this the most simplistic way is buying a Line Output Converter (LOC) this basically creates a rca signal for your amps which is required. The LOC basically you take 2 wires and tap the + and - on both speaker wires going to the rear 6x9's. (There are many great brands out there but I personally use the Scosche SLC-4 since it was reccomended to me and works great). You can buy wire splice that crimp on at radio shack for $2-4 bucks. Then you plug you rca from loc to amp input.
picture of my loc:

spliced in to both rear 6x9's a + and - on each 6x9 was spliced with the blue splicer:


Dash Left +: Gray/Orange
Dash Left -: Gray/Yellow
Dash Center +: Gray/Brown
Dash Center -: Gray/Orange
Dash Right +: Gray/Dark Green
Dash Right -: Gray/Light Green

Front Left +: Gray/Violet
Front Left -: Gray/Yellow
Front Right +: Dark Green/Violet
Front Right -: Dark Green/Yellow

Rear Left +: Dark Green/Tan
Rear Left -: Dark Green/Gray
Rear Right +: Dark Green/Brown
Rear Right -: Yellow/Gray

Subwoofer +: Grey/Brown
Subwoofer -: Dark Green/Brown

Note: The the first color is the color of the wire and the second color is the color of the stripe on the wire.
__________________
The other way which requires a factory installed amp! is installing the pac audio harness (C2A-CHY) behind the oem deck which provides a set of rca pre outs. Basically you plug in some rcas to the pac audio harness and run them down the side of the car under the carpet (pop the mouldings off around door sills) and run the rca to the trunk and plug into the amp.

Once you determined the best way to get your RCA signal this is required in both methods:
Installing the Amp (OEM Head Unit or Aftermarket HU)
Your amp requires three wires for it to turn on and function properly. Power wire, ground wire and remote ignition wire. Whats amazing about the lx's is that the battery is in the trunk (an audio dream). Choosing the wire gauge depends on the amount of amps and the amps draw. In my car I have one amp so i run a measily 8 awg. In my truck I have two very big amps and run 0 awg wire looks like garden hose. Anyway if you choose an amp kit they usualy tell you how much wattage the wiring kit is designed for sometimes not.
But installing the wire is a breeze take the floor out in the trunk like your accessing the spare tire and you will see the battery. Put a ring terminal on both power and ground wires take the nut off both power and ground at the battery and put the designated wires on the designated screws. I put my negative on a bolt near the postivie terminal on the chassis because the less ground you have to use the better and doing this saved me about a foot of wiring. On the power your going to want to fuse it to protect your electrical system and amp in case something happens so put an inline fuse 12-18" off the power wire. The fuse however should be the last thing installed after all wire is hooked up and sub is all wire up, to ensure safety to car and equipment.
ring terminal on power (i prefer blue or red wire for power to help me keep track):

ring terminal on negative (i prefer black or silver to help me keep track)::

this next pictures shows my inline fuse holder on the power wire between 12-18":

Picture of power wire connected to battery via ring terminal and the ground wire connected to the chassis on a bolt right near the positive post on the battery:




To determine the fuse size I add up all the fuses on the amps for instance I have 3 20amp fuses on the amp, I would put a 60 amp fuse in the inline fuse holder on the power wire. For the ground wire usually you want to make this wire as short of distance as possible between battery or chassis and amp so interference (alternator wines when you hit accelerator etc.) isnt brought into the cars speakers through the amp.
Installing the remote wire there is three options tapping into the fuse box for an ignition wire (turns power on when car is on, off when car is off). or you can tap a solid pink wire in a wiring harness found near the battery heading towards the front of the car (shown here):


Again you can use a single wire tap like i listed above for the Loc method. To make sure this wire is the right one take a car test light put into this wire and the other end of test light to a ground chassis and or battery. If light is off when car is off and on when car is on you found the right wire to use as a remote. (I hope to have pictures soon). The third option is only for those with aftermarket Headunits. When installing the aftermarket headunit you will notice in the wiring harness there is going to be a remote wire connect to this wire and run to the back of the car for the amp. Too much work for me though and one extra wire that has to go to the back of the car, so ipersonally would stil use methods 1 or 2 for the remote wire.
once my wiring was donw i was able to use the plastic wire management to keep thing organized:

Replacing Speakers
Regardless of what sound group you have in your 300 you will have 6-8 speakers maybe an amp maybe not. These speakers include (2 or 3) 3.5" speakers in the dash (2) 6.5" or 6x9's in the front doors and (2) 6x9's in the rear. In regards to the brand and type coaxials or full range component style that is up to you. For this sake I will talk about the most common speakers used which are coaxials. Components can be done but honeslty only an experienced person with car audio knowledge should deal with them because of proper imaging the multiple speakers, understanding the crossovers and really the need for their own aftermarket amp. Anyway back to coaxials no matter what size coaxial they tend to share the same characteristc and come in many different configurations. You can get 2 way coaxials which usually mean you have two speakers in one. Usually two way includes the midbass speaker and a tweeter. Three ways tend to have a midbass and maybe two tweeters mounted above the midbass. Now the main reason to replace these stock speakers is because they tend to have inferior materials. Even the better oem soungroups like the boston acoustics have paper cones, usually with speakers with better materials (and they range) you will get more performance such as more midbass or more crisp highs etc. Now this is a slight bit of opinion but if you cant afford or plan to replace the speakers in pieces start with the front of the soundstage. Reason being is this is where the emphasis is when you close your eyes your car should be set up where it sounds like there is a concert stage in front of you. In a perfect world you would have perfectly imaged tweeters with sound waves coming directly into your ears. Anyway if you want to tackle the door speakers or dash speakers first that is up to you. But here is something to consider when replacing speakers:
1. If your replacing your door speakers you really dont need anything crazy like 3-way coaxials. A simple 2-way or full range speaker is fine and will save you money. Because the door speakers are usually crossosed over at the amp to only receive the lower frequencies you would not be utilizing those tweeters on those 3-way coaxials they are doing probably next to nothing your midbass is doing all of the work so save the money on use it on something else.
2. same scenario goes for the dash speakers. using 2,3 way 3.5" speakers is wastefull per say. With the dash speakers they are crossed over at the amp to only receive high frequencies to keep the sound stage high and in front of you. so really in this scenario your only utilizing the tweeter the midwoofers are doing next to nothing. A lot of people even opt to put a 1"-2" tweeter in the dash because really that is all that is needed.
3. Replacing the rear 6x9's is probably the least important and noticeable of the entire sound stage. In a real soundstage sound behind you is always very minimal and for movies its usually for the special effects to completely engulf you. In many Sound Quality competitions hardcore audio gurus often times dont even have rear speakers also known as rear fill, since the entire emphasis is on the front speakers to keep the stage in front of you. Those who do retain there rear speakers might turn there fade slightly toward the front so the ear isnt confused as to if the stage is in front or behind you. I dont know the specifics on the cut off frequencies for the rear 6x9's but they pretty much receive a fuller range of frequencies the highs and the lows, so its up to you if you deem it necessary to get 3-way coaxials or simply go with a 2-way set. I went with 3-ways because the two sets i was comparing where the same price. If one was priced much more than the other i probably would of went with the cheaper set. Honestly a 2-way set would be just fine because your emphasis is on the front of the car, what are you trying to prove in the rear deck??? Nothing worse to me when someone shows me there car and all i can hear is the rear speakers on and ZERO front speakers..I literally start playing with their faders etc. to fix it because its annoying to me. One thing i will say though is since you have your rear deck ripped apart and your replacing these rear 6x9's do yourself a favor unbolt and unplug 3rd brake light, put some felt strips (which can be found at the local hardware) on the 3rd brake light where it meets/touches the glass kind of a rectangular perimeter, you will thank me later as this is one of the most annoying rattles our 300's have, with oem 6x9s and aftermarket.
4. Choosing a speaker is completely up to you, people can give reccomendations all day long, all speakers will sound slightly different in different cars soo many variables go into play in audio systems. Your best bet is hit a few of the local audio shops your best buy, mom and pa audio shop etc. Listen to them and compare what sound you like best turn the volume up listen to the definition, listen to the midbass pick whats right for you. We all try to achieve different things in an audio system what i view as awesome might be considered horrid to your ears.

Install at your own risk, I take ZERO responsibilty if you burn up your amp, blow a speaker or your head unit. If you are having a hard time understanding some of this you may want to opt for a proffessional car audio specialist to install for you. I am not comfortable moddiing my engine and dont trust myself but feel pretty confident and get enjoyment out of car audio installs. I do not consider myself an expert but one to share my knowledge on what things I do know. This is also a great time to really acclimate yourself with fellow lx'ers in your area true enthusiast tend to help one another pull off certain mods, you may be a superstar when it comes to engines and your lx friend might be a pro installer in car audio, its great to know people and share a hobby let me tell you! Isn't sharing mods, ideas, insights, and installing most of the fun anyway and what the hobby is truley all about???

specifics to ALL vehicles make and model thanks to (ny srt8):
 

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Great stuff Todd, on the inline fuse I'm guessing these are sold at audio shops as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great stuff Todd, on the inline fuse I'm guessing these are sold at audio shops as well?
yeah you can find them at audio shops last time i was in best buy they had them on the rack in the audio department too.
Probably, but radio shack, home depot etc will all sell them also.
yeah they should have them some radio shacks carry car speaker accessories some dont. Not familiar with home depot but maybe?
Honestly though if you needed all the wiring and an inline fuse i would get a amp wiring kit, usually found pretty cheap on sites like ebay and will include the power, ground, remote, inline fuse holder, inline fuse, rca cables zip ties and sometimes wiring loom. but yeah sometimes the inline fuse they give isnt best for your particular application and getting a seperate one at the store is best.
 

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Circult City!!! Yes I spelled it wrong.. the cult is dead, so now is the store... bad for the red and whites, good for the people looking for wire, dynamat etc... Go, buy up on materials and have at it!
 

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Excellent Write up Todd!!! Your very last statement should be

or take it to an audio shop and have them worry about all the technical aspects of the install and hold them liable. Pay the cash and enjoy the sound!!!

At least that is what i am going to do lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Excellent Write up Todd!!! Your very last statement should be

or take it to an audio shop and have them worry about all the technical aspects of the install and hold them liable. Pay the cash and enjoy the sound!!!

At least that is what i am going to do lol
dont worry that will be noted, I have a lot of confidence in people, I really think the hardest part is making sure you have everything you need to install. I have done a few installs where i had to take a break and hit the store nothing is more frusterating and time consuming. thanks from the compliment! cant wait to see pictures and impressions of your setup when it all gets in.
 

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I am sorry... I am a noob... I dont understand the idea of Ohms. Is more better or less better? Lets say for giggles here I use the Focal FP 1.800
Its specs say:
1x 400 4 ohm
1x 600 2 ohm
1x 800 1 ohm
If I wanted to run the 13" focal 33V2 sub, it has 800W max 400W RMS... So I could run two at 1 ohm, but I dont understand the (+ or -) to it... can you further explain that to me?

Does the response have to match sub to amp? the sub is 30 to 500Hz the amp is 10 to 300Hz

Help! I confused...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am sorry... I am a noob... I dont understand the idea of Ohms. Is more better or less better? Lets say for giggles here I use the Focal FP 1.800
Its specs say:
1x 400 4 ohm
1x 600 2 ohm
1x 800 1 ohm
If I wanted to run the 13" focal 33V2 sub, it has 800W max 400W RMS... So I could run two at 1 ohm, but I dont understand the (+ or -) to it... can you further explain that to me?

Does the response have to match sub to amp? the sub is 30 to 500Hz the amp is 10 to 300Hz

Help! I confused...
its okay i am glad your asking questions helps me understand where people have trouble, this comes easy to me.
Okay in your example your amp fp. 1.800
1x 400 4 ohm
1x 600 2 ohm
1x 800 1 ohm
to start looking at the amp i dont want to ruin the sub by maxing it out hence giving it a constant 800 watts at 1 ohm. I would probably give it 600 @ 2ohm because its in between the rms on the sub and the max wattage the sub can handle (the median). Once i have figured out that I look at your sub and pick the ohm load. But since your saying (2) subs yeah your going to want the 1ohm to give your subs about 400 watts each. since its a dual 4 ohm woofer meaning dual voice coils DVC i look dvc wiring. yep looks like you understand to this point and are stuck on the wiring.. Basically the ++ -- means this. The subwoofer has two coils for a coil to move it needs a positive and a ground since its a dual voice coil there are two coils stacked so you have a positive and a ground on both coils meaning two + and two -. So bascially to wire the two woofers to 1 ohm take a piece of speaker wire and put it in the input on the + from one coil to the + on the other (same sub). Then do the same with the negative. then the same on the other woofer for positive and negative. Now you need to get wire from the subs to the amp. take another piece of speaker wire put it into the + but dont take out the wiring you just put in. do the same with the negative and do the same on the other woofer. Now the two positive wires you have coming off both woofers just twist them together and insert into the amp do the same with the negatives. I wish i had a woofer hear to take a picture but i dont right now :(
try to visualize that as you look at the jl link i provided.
 

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ok cool, thank you! a local shop has quoted me (well a fair price, based on parts...) But I wanted to see if I could save myself close to a grand on doing this solo...
I would have the factory nav, (I will eventually upgrade..) so I will need a LOC, I will run a pair of 6.5 in the front doors, with a 4in in dash and tweets put somewhere (focal component set) I think I would want a small amp powering those, then I would have a pair of 6x9's on the rear deck (would I use the same amp for the front or seperate amp?) then two 13" subs in the trunk, that much I am sure would need its own amp...

The front door components have their own crossover (a seperate one, a opposed to the inline one the 6x9s have...) does that change anything? Would I have to put in aftermarket wires to the speakers? or would the factory 16 guage work or?

I amnot a sound freak, but nice clean and LOUD music would kick butt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
haha good questions sounds like you have some familiority with car audio. In reference to a few things i personally would mount the tweeter in the 3.5" spot in the dash you want your highs high, but then this is a questionable procedure too. Ideally you want the whole component set close to one another so there isnt any gaps from the components. I had a set of tweeters mounted near the winshield in the truck and mids low in the door when the song would go between the mids and the tweeters the ear can notice the movement from one speaker to the next hence why you want them all fairly close. If you saw the pictures of shawns component set you will notice he made kick pods on the floor and mounted his mid woofers and tweeters in there. Honestly unless your looking to do something like this i would consider a simple 2 way component set mids and tweeters or even a component set with a imaging tweeter and another set of tweeters, that is how i made things sound good in the truck, i have a set of tweeters near the midwoofer and a set of imaging tweeter on the dash. This is a CDT component setup.

In regards to your power, i saw power your components with a amp and run everything else off your oem factory amp. So basically run new wire i say 12 awg from the new speakers (wherever you decide to put them) to the back of the car to the amp. run the rest of the speakers off the wiring that is there (oem). look at the picture in my first post system A that is a component set and exactly how you want to run your components to the amp (nevermind the head unit part since your using oem head unit).
 

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I just started putting my system in Monday. Installed a Alpine CD-9886, Infinity Reference 3-1/2" , I may try just tweeters in the dash and dump the 3 1/2. Polk 6 3/4 in the 6x9 spot front doors. I will have to make a adaptor. Audiobond 6x9's in the rear deck with some modification. I have a 300 watt amp for a 10" Kicker sub in the trunk. Install of the radio was pretty easy I had to run wires for the 3 1/2's the spot was there but no wires. I'll have to grind the 6x9 holes a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great info, Todd!
thanks michael
Very nice!! Thanks man...This was much needed.
Great I am glad I can help, if i can eleiminate confusion and give insight, I serve a purpose.
I just started putting my system in Monday. Installed a Alpine CD-9886, Infinity Reference 3-1/2" , I may try just tweeters in the dash and dump the 3 1/2. Polk 6 3/4 in the 6x9 spot front doors. I will have to make a adaptor. Audiobond 6x9's in the rear deck with some modification. I have a 300 watt amp for a 10" Kicker sub in the trunk. Install of the radio was pretty easy I had to run wires for the 3 1/2's the spot was there but no wires. I'll have to grind the 6x9 holes a little.
I am curious myself to how well the 6 3/4 fit in the doors this has been a consideration for me as well!??
Very nice write-up Todd! Rep to you!
Thanks meech greatly appreciated!
Nice job Todd!!!
Thanks Willy hope I helped answer some audio questions if you were curious.
 
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