Chrysler 300 forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Picking up a comp 273 on friday. What else is recommended to change when I install the cam? Also, is it a difficult job for our cars? Any other information would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 

·
a.k.a. EvilSRT
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
On the 6.1, nothing.


tools needed:
3/8 ratchet, 1/4inch ratchet, 10mm socket 1/4 & 3/8 drive, 9/32, 13mm, 15mm, 8mm, 23mm, half inch drive breaker bar, tourqe wrench, impact(or muscle) 3inch extension, 6inch extension, 5/8 spark plug socket, 3 jaw puller, RTV, crank seal, prybar, 3 jack stands, 7qts of oil, 2 gallons of coolant, one quart of P/S fluid, jack and buddy to help or drink beers while you work.

1: disconnect battery
2: Jack up on jack stands
3: remove front facia.
4: drain coolant form radiator, petcock is on passanger side on the bottom.
5: disconnect upper hose from the coolant neck
6: disconnect front power steerin hose form cooler on passanger side of cooler
7: remove radaiator hold downs one on top of each side of the radiator. 10MM socket
8: disconnect two plugs on passenger side of radiator fan shroud towards the upper radiator hose
9: swing assymbly out and towards the drivers side of the car. prop up on a jack stand so it doesnt pull all the hoses, wiring, etce tc and ruin stuff.
10. remove coil packs and one plug from each cylinder. removal of plugs is not neccesary but helps in the long run on turning the engine over by hand. and beleive me the SRT8 is not a pooch when it comes to compression.....
11: remove valve covers, all gonna be 8mm bolts except the two nuts that hold the dipstick to the studs. those are 10mm
12: remove rocker shaft/rocker arms from head, all 10 mm bolts. loosen in stages so you dont bend the rocker shaft or break a rocker shaft tower on the head. start from middle one then out in steps. walking it up. make sure to lay rocker arm assymbleys on a clean surface and facein the same direction as if they were still in the motor
13: remove push rods, lay out in same direction as if the were in the motor and of course seperat ethem, exhasut from intake. intakes are shorter if you mix them up BTW
14: on the drivers side of the front timing cover there is a coolant crossover tube. remove the front bolt on the cover(10MM), then remove the rear stud on the back of the drivers head. there is a 10MM bolt that is holding a resistor and a ground. MAE SURE TO PUT THESE BACK ON. now with this crossover loose. pry up on timing cover side and push the back of the tube towards the passenger side. essentially twisting the crossover. it wont break i promise.
15:remove serpentine belt
16: remove crank pully. 23MM i believe. a simple 3 jaw puller works perfect.
remove serpentine belt tensioner. 15mm bolt
17: unbolt alternator. 15mm with a 13mm nut on the back side holding the power wire on.
18:unbolt TWO bolts from the ac compressor on the drivers side. then LOOSEN the other two bolts holding the ac compressor to the block. this will allow you to slide the timing cover off the block without removing the ac compressor fully
19: there are only 14 bolts on the timing cover that need to be removed. you DO NOT have to remove the water pump for this. all bolts but 6 will be 13mm, one will be a 15mm the last 5 holding the timing vcover to the oil pan are all 10mm
20, carefully pry the cover away from the block while having someone hold the corssover tube high enough to wiggle the timing cover away.
21: remove cam gear bolt 15mm pull cam gear off of cam.
22: remove 3 timing chain tensioner bolts. 13mm. be carefull not to drop them in the pan. then you have a LONG day.
23: reinstall cam gear and pull cam out. be careful as to not scratch the cam bearings as the sides of the cam lobes are VERY sharp and they will cut you. ive done it. before just pulling the cam out. rotate the cam by hand to set all the lifters up there bores. keep rotating until you do not hear the lifters on the cam.
24:reinstall new cam but make sure its either A: lubed with oil or B: with assymbley lube
25: set crank into to position. there will be a slit on the oil pump, you will put the keyway slot on the crank right at the beging of the slit as shown in the picture.
26: reinstall timing chain tensioner plate
27: spin cam over till the arrow on the cam gear is faceing the tip of the block. or 12 oclock.
perform these steps back ward.
28: install your tune and go burn some rubber :)
 

·
DFW LX CLUB Member
Joined
·
11,215 Posts
Sorry for thread jacking but since we are on the subject of cams and SRT8s, what kind of improvements or increases are we talking about? I have been thinking of doing a couple more things to mine but don't know if installing a cam is worth the money and time? :4-dontknow:
 

·
a.k.a. EvilSRT
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
Sorry for thread jacking but since we are on the subject of cams and SRT8s, what kind of improvements or increases are we talking about? I have been thinking of doing a couple more things to mine but don't know if installing a cam is worth the money and time? :4-dontknow:
I have the HHP Stage one and I got 40whp from it alone.


Oscar,
SRT Max cam. FTW!!!
SRT Max and HHP Stage 1 are pretty much the exact same cam. SRT Max has a little more lope and makes power low and mid range where the HHP Stage 1 makes it's power mid and high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So a little help guys...Will it be ok to leave the stock springs with this cam? Also, I plan on having diablo sport right a cmr tune for me, but will it be ok to drive the vehicle untuned until I get the cmr? I have a predator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yes you can drive the car with a stock tune but it is not recommended.

Don't worry about springs or rods. You don't need those until you go stage 2 or bigger.
Oh ok, thanks for the help, very much appreciated. My biggest concern of course is not messing anything up...I wont be driving the car hard or getting in it until its tuned for the cam, but driving it easy and "normal" will be alright for a few days until I get the tune?
 

·
a.k.a. EvilSRT
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
Yes but....... If you get a tune from Johan at DiabloSport, for a cam only all you have to do is tell him what cam it is and any other performance mods you have. He can set you up with a start up tune in 10 minutes. That's the only way to be sure that nothing is going to happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,405 Posts
why not just replace the spring and rods while youre at it with more beefier one like the 6.1. Yes i was told a startup tune is recommended as the stock tune with aftermarket cam won't run too well.
 

·
a.k.a. EvilSRT
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
He has a 6.1.

IF it were a 5.7 I would say you have to replace the springs and rods.

But... Nemo has a point. If you have the funds (springs and rods aren't too expensive) you might as well do it while you're in there. Especially if you have higher miles on your motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes but....... If you get a tune from Johan at DiabloSport, for a cam only all you have to do is tell him what cam it is and any other performance mods you have. He can set you up with a start up tune in 10 minutes. That's the only way to be sure that nothing is going to happen.
oh dont worry, Ive already talked to Johan, just waiting to put the cam in and do some minor data logging then get the tune. I should have the tune only a day or two after the cam goes in, just wanted to make sure it would be ok to drive back and forth to work for a day or two...

Yessir Nemo, she's a 6.1 lol.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top