smoke is never a bad sign. hopefully you just toasted your inline fuse. anyway a lot goes into a sub amp combination in regards to the proper ohm load and wiring to get the desired ohm load. first and foremost which subs do you have specify to me if they are single or dual voice coils, and what ohm load.... then give me the specs on the amp.
smelling something is never good though, could be the amp, could be the voice coils on the sub or could of been the in line fuse (hopefully) my guess this happened because your subs are wired to your amp incorrectly. also why are you running a 4 channel amp to 2 subs? you should be running a mono subwoofer amp?

 

My guess would be that you were burning the glue that is used for the coil. But, just be careful, let us know how/what you have connected exactly

 

AMP - MTX Thunder 4300X
SUB - (box says Road Thunder, Single Reflex Bandpass Subwoofer System) - dual MTX

I bought my last car with these installed, so I don't have any manuals available to reference what the specs are - these sites seem pretty accurate, and I can take things apart if there'd be info gained from it.

I tapped both L/R rear speakers and connected to a SCOCHE loc in the last 4 spots. I used RCA rear on the loc and amp, didn't use front RCA as I didn't see it pictured in the "Ultimate.." thread. I used a power cord that I ripped from the system installed on my old car - not sure of the gauge, but its relatively large and looks about the same size you see in those "starter" kits at WallyWorld. I tapped the solid pink near the battery, and used the same cord as the power cord for the ground (as in I used the same type, I cut the old cable as it was long enough for back to front on a 95 Caddy Deville) and attached it to the bolt near the battery same as in the "Ultimate..." thread. I used speaker wire (same as from LR speakers to loc) to connect +/- hookups on subbox to - from something I read online - right +/- on the available hookups:

Lf+, Lf-, Rf+, Rf-, Lr+, Lr-, Rr+, Rr-

So, as far as I can tell from what I did, and since I had the same system working in a previous car, there's something wrong with the amp-sub connection. I used different cord for the remote wire, and (since I cut the power cable and used it as ground) used different ground cable (they were about the same size/gauge).

If I can provide any more info, let me know!!

 

ok let me figure this out here is what we want to use:
150 watts bridged x 2 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.3% Thd+N

 

do you have the road thunder 10's or road thunder 12's?

 

i actually need to know the exact model number of each subwoofer. this is important as it has a lot to do with wiring your system properly.

 

Took the box/amp out, and took the subs out of the enclosure. The only marking I could read (I took the right sub out - if there might be more info I'll take the left out) was this:

1 OMC1 187 8 OHM
557 99-10-22

It was right on the side.

I googled that but didn't find anything - does that help narrow the search?

I can provide pics of the subs themselves if that'd work.

 

yeah thats not enough info. if they are single voice coil subs an each 8 ohm you can run get the 4 ohms you need, HOWEVER you wont be able to wire them to the amp properly because you only have a + and - wire. you wil need at least two +,s amd -'s but its very uncommon to have a DVC 8

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=160

 

More info - the cone on the left has "3CF361" and under "000" stamped. The metal has the same 1 0MC 187 8 OHM stamp, with a different number underneath.

Pictures of the amp, subs, enclosure:
http://i47.tinypic.com/15ek6zn.jp
[IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/1e9p2c.jpg

(RF +, -, LF +,- bottom = RR same)

 

A sort of "bump" to ask - given that the wire used was gotten from a previous install, and I just tapped the +/- to speakers and ignition using speakerwire - what am I doing wrong? Would I need a larger gauge depending on vehicle? How should I connect RF+-, LF+-, RR+-, LR+- to only a +- input on the sub box?